As a wildlife photographer, I have visited various locations. However, the prospect of a winter birding and photography trip to Kashmir in January filled me with special excitement. Kashmir, often hailed as the most scenic yet controversial tourist destination in India, promised not only the allure of diverse birdlife but also a canvas of snowscapes.
When my flight landed at Srinagar, my enthusiasm was palpable in anticipation of a winter wonderland. However, my eagerness quickly transformed into disappointment, as contrary to my vivid imagination, there was no snow!
It was then that I learned about climatic patterns. The lack of snowfall was attributed to the El Niño effect—the periodic warming of sea surface temperatures in the Pacific Ocean, which disrupts the usual weather patterns—its ripple effects spreading to lands as far away as Kashmir. But even without snow, Kashmir was still charming, proving that every landscape has its own tale to tell.
Seeking respite from travel fatigue, I was contemplating having a cup of black tea, when my travel companion proposed a better alternative—the Kashmiri Kahwa tea. The Kahwa is a delicious and healthy blend of green tea, spices (cardamom, cinnamon, and star anise), nuts (almonds or walnuts), and saffron. The burst of flavours and the subtle sweetness from honey instantly connected me to the traditions and warmth of the region.
In what follows, I share my bird watching experiences in different places across Kashmir.
Yousmarg
The following day, our quest for avian encounters led us to Yousmarg, a hill station. We were on the lookout for the elusive Kashmir nutcracker amidst pine trees. As I stood on an elevated point, I could see dense coniferous forests surrounding a picturesque valley, and in the foreground, traditional Kashmiri houses were scattered across the valley, seamlessly blending with the beauty around them—a visual poem!
As we strolled through the coniferous forest, the air was filled with the crisp fragrance of pine needles. We moved cautiously, our eyes scanning the treetops for the nutcracker. Suddenly, the tranquillity was interrupted by the distinctive call—harsh croaks—of the nutcracker, a sound we were eagerly anticipating. And there, perched on the uppermost branch, was the sought-after Kashmir nutcracker!
Amidst the canopy, a flash of movement caught our attention—a rufous-naped tit. With a burst of vibrant hues, it flitted restlessly between two pine trees. The interplay of sunlight and shadows further accentuated the beauty of its plumage. Captivated by the bird’s lively antics, we remained still, becoming silent spectators to a woodland performance.
As we continued our exploration, the forest revealed yet another gem—the goldcrest. Photographing this bird proved challenging thanks to its small size, elusive nature, and preference for the canopy. Its constant restlessness further compounded the difficulty, requiring a delicate balance of patience and technical expertise. Moments turned into minutes as we observed the goldcrest flit from branch to branch and tree to tree, and our patience was rewarded with several beautiful shots.
In the late afternoon, we shifted to a nearby location in search of the fiercely territorial tawny owls. Upon arrival, we were drawn to a scene unfolding above us—a group of Eurasian jackdaws orchestrating a concerted effort to drive away the owls from their tree hollows. The air resonated with the cacophony of avian voices. The resilient owls valiantly withstood the onslaught and defended their tree nest.
Having marvelled at the tawny owls, we moved on to another location, looking for yet another bird, the Kashmir nuthatch.
Pretty soon our attention was drawn towards the leafy canopy, where, amidst the intricate maze of branches, the white-cheeked nuthatch was frolicking with unrestrained joy. The bird, with its blue-grey plumage and the bold black stripe across its eye, was a visual treat.
Next in our bucket list was the elusive water rail, and we drove to a lengthy sewage canal in pursuit of it. The canal had large patches of weeds, which attracted a motley of birds like the purple swamphen, common moorhen, and mallard. And to our astonishment, three water rails emerged from their concealed sanctuary, welcoming us with a surprising proximity
Dachigham National Park
The next day we explored the Dachigham National Park, eager to catch a glimpse of the orange bullfinch. We spotted the bullfinches feeding and quenching their thirst near a meandering stream in the heart of the park. After spending some time watching them, we continued along the stream. The fallen maple leaves had formed a winter carpet on the pathway.
Underneath the tall maple trees, we were treated to the beauty of the Himalayan bluetail. And the melodious calls of the variegated laughingthrush brought some music to the serene park.
Our next destination took us to a lake in search of the common shelduck. As we eagerly scanned the water, our initial excitement waned, giving way to dismay. The lake was marred by pollution and neglect. It desperately needs environmental conservation.
Botanical Garden
Following a satisfying lunch, we headed to the Botanical Garden. As we scoured the garden for Blyth’s rosefinch, we heard a flurry of avian activity, and were delighted to see three different birds—the Alexandrine parakeet, the black-throated thrush, and the yellow-breasted greenfinch.
Just when the sun was sinking below the horizon, we heard our guide’s excited voice: “Look at the top of the tree!” Our collective gaze turned skyward, and there it was, the elusive rosefinch, perched atop the leafy canopy!
Kangan
The following day, we headed to Kangan, a town in Jammu and Kashmir, with promises of sightings of the ibisbill, pine bunting, yellowhammer, and brambling. Along the bank of the picturesque Sind River, we were greeted by a pair of ibisbills foraging amidst the rocks.
As we marvelled at their behaviour, our attention was diverted to an aquatic ballet by a brown dipper. It skilfully navigated the water and, with swift precision, captured a fish utilizing its beak as a weapon.
Continuing along the bank of the river, we met a diminutive figure, the little forktail, moving among the rocks scattered in the stream. The intricate patterns of its plumage, coupled with its rhythmic dance on the rocks, was a visual feast.
From the river bank we shifted to an expansive agricultural land, where we stumbled upon a group of pine buntings perched atop a distant tree. Determined to get a closer look, we inched our way towards them. By the time we closed the gap, they had descended to the ground and were engrossed in foraging. Our guide advised us to search for the yellowhammer and brambling within the group, a task that proved challenging owing to their small size and the distance.
As the day progressed, we relocated to an area near a foothill. Here we chanced upon a black-throated accentor.
Eager to explore further, we wandered up the undulating hilly terrain, and during our descent, our senses were suddenly captivated by the unexpected appearance of a passerine bird, Eversmann’s redstart—a lovely way to end our day.
Hokersar Wetland
Embarking on the last leg of our exploration, we found ourselves at the Hokersar wetland, a natural perennial wetland and bird sanctuary. The terrain was slushy, and mud clung stubbornly to our boots, making walking difficult. Undeterred, we ventured into the fields, scanning the trees and the ground with our binoculars. Luck smiled on us when a pine bunting revealed itself easily.
However, despite our efforts, the yellowhammer and brambling still proved elusive. Just as frustration threatened to overshadow our determination, a burst of vibrant colours on the ground caught our attention.
It was a yellowhammer, foraging. We persisted in our search for the remaining bird species from our bucket list—the brambling. After a while the tide turned, and the bird showed up.
All in all, the day at the Hokersar wetland was filled with challenges and alternating moments of exasperation and exhilaration, illustrating the unpredictability of birdwatching and the resilience of birders.
Our birding expedition team comprised people from diverse backgrounds: Anuradha and Manju, the dynamic birding sisters from Pune, with keen insight into ornithology; Captain Upadhyay, a retired air force group leader and passionate bird enthusiast from Delhi, friendly and unwaveringly enthusiastic; Latha, a seasoned high court advocate from Kochi; Giri, a businessman and photographer from Haridwar; and led by local guides Ansar Ahmad and Irfan Jeelani.
Interacting with individuals having varied experiences not only enriches our knowledge but also cultivates open-mindedness, adaptability, and a broader understanding of the world.
Birds sighted during the trip:
1. Kashmir nutcracker
2. Rufous naped tit
3. Goldcrest
4. Brown fronted woodpecker
5. Coal tit
6. White cheeked nuthatch
7. Kashmir nuthatch
8. Black kite
9. Long legged buzzard
10. Eurasian jackdaw
11. Common myna
12. Rufous backed redstart
13. Common buzzard
14. Tawny owl
15. Mallard
16. Water rail
17. Eurasian moorhen
18. Gray headed swamphen
19. Cinereous tit
20. Bluethroat
21. Variegated laughingthrush
22. Little forktail
23. Spotted forktail
24. Orange bullfinch
25. Common shelduck
26. Great crested grebe
27. Eurasian coot
28. Blyth’s rosefinch
29. Yellow breasted greenfinch
30. Ibisbil
31. Peregrine falcon
32. Streaked laughingthrush
33. Plumbeous redstart
34. White capped redstart
35. Pine bunting
36. Blue capped redstart
37. European goldfinch
38. Rosy pipit
39. Water pipit
40. Brambling
41. Yellowhammer
42. Yellow billed blue magpie
43. Black throated accentor
44. Plain mountain finch
45. Common kingfisher
46. White throated kingfisher
47. Pied kingfisher
48. Red wattled lapwing
49. Indian pond heron
50. Himalayan woodpecker
51. House crow
52. Alexandrine parakeet
53. Large billed crow
54. Green backed tit
55. Himalayan bulbul
56. Lemon rumped warbler
57. Gray hooded warbler
58. Bar tailed treecreeper
59. Eurasian wren
60. Brown dipper
61. Black throated thrush
62. Blue whistling thrush
63. Himalayan bluetail
64. Gray bushchat
65. House sparrow
66. Gray wagtail
67. Rock bunting
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