During World War II, in early 1942, Japanese forces captured Burma (now Myanmar), leading to the surrender of the British troops. Dependent on sea routes to supply troops in Burma, the Japanese were vulnerable to Allied submarine attacks. To avoid the perilous 3000-kilometre sea journey around the Malay Peninsula, they opted to construct a railway from Bangkok to Rangoon (capitals of Thailand and Burma, respectively), the Thailand–Burma Railway.
Video taken from the Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum
In June 1942, they began this project, a 415-kilometre railroad connecting Ban Pong in Thailand with Thanbyuzayat in Burma. Construction began simultaneously in both countries on 16 September 1942, with an overly ambitious completion deadline of December 1943.
Dubbed the ‘Death Railway’ for the brutal conditions and staggering death toll during the construction, the project employed forced labourers, called rōmusha in Japanese, from various ethnicities: Thai, Burmese, Malays, Tamils, Chinese, Javanese, Singaporeans, Dutch, and Allied prisoners of war (POWs).
In the work camps, POWs and rōmusha were subjected to inhuman treatment—grossly limited food, contaminated rations, lack of potable water, prolonged work hours, torture, inadequate medical care, and unsanitary conditions. These resulted in diseases like diarrhoea, cholera, dysentery, and malaria, which took a huge toll on their health. The POW death toll totalled 12,621 (6904 British, 2802 Australians, 2782 Dutch, and 133 Americans). Rōmusha deaths were unrecorded by the Japanese, but estimates exceed 60,000.
Completed earlier than expected, in October 1943, the railway allowed the Japanese to sustain their troops in Burma despite Allied bombings frequently destroying bridges. The completion of the Death Railway within a mere 12 months was attributed to the simultaneous construction from both its ends, rather than from just one end. After the war, this railway was dismantled to protect British interests in Singapore. Consequently, it gradually disintegrated, reclaimed by the jungle.
Today, only a 130-km section of the railway track remains in Thailand, reopened by the State Railway of Thailand in 1957. It originates at Ban Pong, situated centrally between Bangkok and Kanchanaburi, and ends at Nam Tok.
As a history enthusiast with a deep knowledge of world wars, I wanted to visit the remnants of the infamous Death Railway. I chose to explore three crucial landmarks: Hellfire Pass, the Bridge over the River Kwai, and Wampo Viaduct.
Hellfire Pass
Hellfire Pass is the largest railway cutting along the length of the Death Railway. The most fatal stretch for the construction workers, the pass spans 75 metres long and 25 metres deep and was manually carved and blasted with dynamite by Allied POWs. The name ‘hellfire’ is derived from the eerie shadows of guards and emaciated workers cast by the torches illuminating the pass at night, resembling a scene from hell.
In the 1980s, Australian World War II survivors embarked on a mission to reclaim the forgotten terrain of Hellfire Pass in the jungles of Thailand, reigniting interest in the preservation of the Thai–Burma Railway. The Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum, a collaboration between Australian and Thai authorities, was established as a tribute to wartime sacrifices. At the far end of the pass stands a memorial honouring the prisoners who perished during the construction of this railway.
A visit to the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Centre offers insights into the construction and history of the pass, helping visitors appreciate the challenges faced by thousands of Allied POWs and Asian forced labourers.
The centre has a memorial walking trail. If you plan to walk the trail, allocate a full day, as it covers a 3-km stretch, requiring a return trek (totalling 6 km / 4 miles). Given the hot and humid conditions, the trek takes around 4 hours.
Walking along the remnants of the railway track was awe-inspiring, as it had withstood for decades despite the rugged terrain. The path is primarily composed of shale and loose material, and certain areas are more challenging due to steep inclines and declines, often requiring careful navigation.
Throughout the trail, reminders of the railway’s history is evident: original sleepers, metal spikes, and concrete holes that once supported trestle bridges. Thanks to the incredible audio commentary, we could imagine what had happened. The lush greenery of the Kwae Noi Valley contrasts starkly with towering rocks, creating a picturesque landscape.
Although the trail was manageable, the harsh sun made the experience more challenging than anticipated. By the end of our walk, we were drenched in sweat and desperately thirsty. Reflecting on our discomfort, I couldn’t imagine the hardships endured by those who had worked long shifts in the scorching sun with meagre water and sustenance.
Video by Latha Prabhakaran
Admission to Hellfire Pass is free, and the Interpretive Centre welcomes all visitors. The museum operates daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., except on Christmas Day. Special events are held on Remembrance Day (November 11) and ANZAC Day (April 25). If you’re planning to explore the walking trail, you can enjoy a complementary audio tour, which offers insights into various points of interest along the way.
Bridge over the River Kwai
The Bridge over the River Kwai, though not aesthetically pleasing, holds profound historical significance. Part of the Thailand–Burma Railway, the bridge was a Japanese project built by the Allied POWs. The present-day bridge is not the original, having been rebuilt after sustaining damage by Allied bombing during World War II. Moreover, the name itself is misleading, as the river it spans is not actually called Kwai; it’s the Mae Khlong River. The confusion arose from prisoners mistaking Kwai for the river’s name because of its meaning in Thai. In 1960, the Thai government opted to rename the Mae Khlong river to Khwae, to keep it in line with the iconic fictional bridge over the River Kwai.
Adjacent to the bridge are the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery and another museum, providing information about the bridge’s history and its association with the Death Railway. And nearby is the River Kwai Bridge Railway Station, a significant stop for rail travellers. The railway line follows part of the original Death Railway route to Nam Tok, with stops at Kanchanaburi along the way.
Wampo Viaduct
From Kanchanaburi’s River Kwai Bridge Station, a picturesque 17-stop journey winds through mountain cliffs and bamboo forests. Along the route, we will cross Tham Krasae Railway Station, another section of the Death Railway, featuring a long rickety wooden trestle bridge, called the Wampo Viaduct, or Tham Krasae Railway Bridge. Made of massive wooden sleepers, the bridge runs close to the cliff edge along the River Kwai. This remarkable engineering feat, built in 1943 in 17 days by 2000 allied POWs under cruel and tragic wartime conditions, still remains largely intact and in use after nearly 75 years. Watching the train traverse this precarious structure gives goose bumps.
Video by Latha Prabhakaran
Thom Krasae Cave, located just before the Thom Krasae Bridge, is another tourist attraction, which is known for its scenic beauty and the presence of a stunning Buddha statue. This expansive cave offers visitors an opportunity to take a brief stroll along the railway line.
Afterword
The visit to the Death Railway evoked strong emotions within me. Reflecting on the cruelties of history and appreciating the blessings of the present, I couldn’t help but question whether humanity has learned from the past. War still plagues some parts of the world, leaving behind unimaginable devastation and sorrow. Yet there is a faint hope that one day we will heed the lessons of history and work towards a more peaceful future—hope springs eternal.
Imagine there's no countries
It isn't hard to do
Nothing to kill or die for
And no religion too
Imagine all the people
Living life in peace
You may say that I'm a dreamer
But I'm not the only one
I hope someday you'll join us
And the world will be as one.
― John Lennon
A ride through the labyrinthine lanes of time. Humanity will prevail.