The Tamil Nadu Forest Department has created a list of 40 trekking trails across 14 districts under the ‘Trek Tamil Nadu’ initiative to promote ecotourism. This project, in partnership with the Tamil Nadu Wilderness Experiences Corporation, provides a great opportunity for trekkers and nature lovers to explore the beauty and wildlife of the state. The trails are categorized into three levels—easy, moderate, and tough—to suit people with different levels of experience and fitness.
I chose the Kalikesam–Balamore Trek, a moderate trail located in the dense forests of the Western Ghats 35 km from Nagercoil city. The trek is a 14-km round trip and takes about 6–8 hours to complete.
Booking the Kalikesam–Balamore Trek was easy through the online portal www.trektamilnadu.com, and I paid around Rs 4000 for two.
When my wife and I arrived at the Kalikesam Eco Camp at around 8.30 a.m., we were warmly greeted by Sudhakaran, our trekking guide. After a brief introduction and trek overview, we were given a welcome kit, which included a pocket guide to the birds of Tamil Nadu. By 9 a.m. we were set for the trek. Two more guides, Marimuthu and Banumathi, accompanied Sudhakaran. Their friendliness and professional attitude made us feel confident and ready for the adventure ahead.
Our trek started with a walk through a rubber plantation, after which we followed a paved metal road that ran alongside the Kalikesam River. Though the river was hidden by the trees, we could hear the sound of its flow. Our guides, being local tribal people, showed deep knowledge of the forest, pointing out throughout the trek edible and medicinal plants and regaling us with fascinating stories about their connection with the forest.
Our first discovery was a cluster of tiny, vibrant chilies. ‘Kanthari chilies,’ Sudhakar said, pointing to the red chillies. (Kanthari means ‘small and round’ in Malayalam language.) We were told that these fiery chilies, known for their flavour and medicinal properties, are used in chutneys and traditional remedies. We then came across a tall tree, whose rough bark was used by the tribal ancestors to make clothes.
Soon after, Sudhakar pointed to a shrub and smiled. ‘If you cut both ends of this shoot simultaneously, water will flow out,’ he explained. ‘Tribal people on the move use it to quench their thirst.’
We continued on and found wild pepper vines wound around sturdy tree trunks. Wild peppercorns, once dried, are used in Ayurvedic medicines.
A little farther ahead, we entered a bamboo grove. Marimuthu tapped a slender variety and commented that it was ideal for making flutes. Banumathi added that its hollow structure made it perfect for producing sound. Nearby, we saw a taller and stronger species of bamboo, the sticks of which are used in construction and by the Indian police as batons (lathi in Tamil language).
The forest seemed to have several hidden secrets—finding these tribal treasures felt like flipping through the pages of an ancient storybook.
We were lucky to spot around 31 bird species, the highlights among which were the Malabar grey hornbill, greater racket-tailed drongo, and white-bellied treepie. We also saw rufous babbler, purple-rumped sunbird, and Loten’s sunbird fluttering around. A crested serpent eagle perched on a tall tree, looking around. The sounds of the vernal hanging parrots, Malabar parakeets, lesser yellownapes, and brown-headed barbets added to the symphony of the forest, and orange minivets brightened up the top canopy.
We came upon a stone structure adorned with a garland of wild flowers. Sudhakar paused and explained, ‘This is not any idol. Generation after generation, the tribals believe the goddess of nature (vanadhevadhai) dwells here, guarding them against the elements and wildlife as they traverse the forest.’ He lit some incense sticks and prayed for a moment; then we continued the trek.
Before long, we reached our destination, the entrance of the Balamore Estate, where an elderly watchman greeted us and was kind enough to serve us a cup of hot tea.
After resting for a while, we began our trek back towards Kalikesam. The entire trek had taken almost 8 hours, and we felt a sense of accomplishment as we reached the eco camp, where we started.
The physical exertion had made us ravenous, so we had a good meal at the Kalikesam Eco Camp canteen. We then thanked Sudhakaran, Marimuthu, and Banumathi for an interesting day and started our journey home. The whispers of the trees, the murmur of the river, and the stories of the land will remain in our hearts for a long time.
PS: For people coming from places far away, there are rooms available for rent. They can reach the Kalikesam Eco Camp the previous evening and spend the night there.
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Do they also have English speaking guides?
Awesome. I've been to Kalikesam but never trekked.
Lovely account of this lesser known trek.