Trail Tales: Everest Base Camp Trek

For years, I had dreamt of trekking to the Everest Base Camp (EBC). The world’s tallest mountain held a special place in my heart. I had delved into numerous books and absorbed the world of mountaineering from the confines of my armchair, yet I had never dared to tackle any mountain, least of all the Everest. I knew the triumphs and tragedies its slopes have witnessed, and was thus fully aware of the immense challenges that awaited those who ventured to climb it.

As time passed, a persistent whisper nudged me to take the leap, which became too compelling to ignore. I decided to transform my dream into reality, even if it meant stepping away from the comforts of my routine life.

After much contemplation, I booked an EBC trek with a private operator, which strengthened my commitment and determination. No longer a mere spectator, I became an active participant in the grand adventure. In what follows, I share with you my 13-day trek to the EBC.

Day 0: Kathmandu

Our team had eight adventurers from diverse walks of life. Vishal and Shilpa, an American Indian couple well versed in expeditions, took the lead. Accompanying them were Nil and Zulfi, a couple from Banglalore. The rest of the team comprised Shyam, a busy executive adept at balancing work and adventure; Chris, a nutrition specialist, with valuable health expertise; Nishan, a musician from Assam, entertaining us with his guitar when not trekking; and me, an ex–corporate executive turned traveller, photographer, and blogger, documenting our experiences along the way.

The day before we embarked on our long-awaited hike, we had an exhaustive briefing session, wherein our trekking operator outlined the trek’s itinerary, emphasized safety precautions, and provided a checklist of essential items needed for our long and arduous trek.

As per the itinerary, we fly from Ramechhap to Lukla, from where the trek begins. It takes us to the sherpa capital of Namche Bazaar, at an elevation of 3867 metres. As the trek progresses, the altitude steadily increases, taking us to Dingboche, at 4260 metres, then further up to Lobuche, at 4930 metres. The trail continues its ascent, leading us to Gorak Shep, at 5140 metres. Finally, after 9 days, we will arrive at our destination—the EBC, at an awe-inspiring altitude of 5364 metres.

The comprehensive briefing occupied our thoughts the rest of the day, infusing the air with a mix of excitement and anticipation. We hurried to Thamel, Kathmandu’s mecca for trekkers, for some last-minute shopping. It gave us an opportunity to buy any missing gear, ensuring our readiness for the unpredictable Himalayan climate. With each object meticulously packed in our backpacks, we mentally prepared ourselves for the tough yet thrilling days ahead.

Day 01: Kathmandu to Ramechhap to Phaplu

At 2 a.m., we started our journey from Kathmandu to Ramechhap airport, accompanied by our guide, Khilraj, who swiftly transformed into our mentor, confidant, and a treasury of invaluable knowledge, preparing us for the challenging terrain ahead. After a 5 hour road journey, we reached the airport.

Our expedition to the EBC commenced with an unexpected setback. Thanks to harsh weather conditions in the region, flights had been cancelled for the previous four days, and hence the airport was teeming with excited and anxious adventurers, all driven by their aspirations. Unfortunately, the weather forecast for the next three days also didn’t seem promising.

Despite this setback, we resolved to pursue our base camp hike, opting for an alternate route, which involved ditching air travel for a road trip. At 11 a.m. we departed from Ramechhap. Traversing through picturesque villages, verdant forests, and zigzag mountain roads, we finally reached Phaplu, our resting place for the day, by evening.

Day 02: Phaplu to Adheri Khola Waterfall

On day 2, we hit a snag because our vehicle arrived late, and consequently, we could progress only as far as the Adheri Khola Waterfall by late evening, instead of our planned target, Thamedanda. To make matters worse, the muddy roads were treacherously slippery, making driving quite a challenge.

Day 03: Adheri Khola Waterfall to Thamedanda to Phakapani (7520 ft / 2292 m, 20.3 km trek)

To compensate for lost time, we set out early and made it to Thamedanda in time for breakfast. After fuelling up, we commenced our trek, aiming to cover as much distance as possible. Unfortunately, the day was plagued by unfavourable weather. Dim light shrouded the surroundings, creating an eerie and challenging atmosphere. Morning rain had turned the path sludgy; every step was a battle against the elements. Our objective for the day was to reach as close to Phakding (a small village) as feasible. After an impressive 20-kilometre hike braving the adverse conditions, we finally reached Phakapani, another small village. Luckily, we were able to secure modest lodging and settled in for the night.

Day 04: Phakapani to Phakding (8563 ft / 2610 m, 14.8 km trek)

The trek from Phakapani to Phakding commenced with a descent, leading us down a rocky terrain. Navigating through the rocks demanded our full focus, but nevertheless, it was exciting. The path was lined with numerous mani stones (flat stones or rocks with Tibetan Buddhist prayer inscriptions), and following tradition, we walked around them clockwise, embracing the spiritual essence of the trek.

Amidst a stunning landscape, we came across magnificent suspension bridges spanning the valleys. Along the way, we encountered a procession of porters, donkeys, horses, and the unique dzos—a hybrid of cow and yak; adhering to the mountain’s unwritten rules, we stayed close to the mountainside, giving way to the porters and the animals. With each step forward, the air grew crisper, a reminder of the increasing altitude. Upon reaching Phakding, my priority was a rejuvenating hot shower to alleviate the day’s fatigue, followed by a comforting cup of coffee!

Day 05: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (11,286 ft / 3440 m, 11.3 km trek)

This day marked the beginning of our gruelling uphill trek towards the EBC. The path towards Namche appeared deceptively flat until we sighted two suspension bridges, which heralded an uphill climb. It was a ceaseless series of switchbacks, occasionally interrupted by short flights of stairs and stretches of straight, strenuous ascents.

About halfway up the incline, a restroom provided a welcome respite. Pausing here served two purposes: a brief relief from the uphill struggle and, more significantly, the first panoramic view of the majestic Mount Everest—a sight that stirred the soul.

As I trekked along, I observed numerous fellow travellers hiking at their own pace and taking breaks or pausing to catch their breaths. In contrast, I adopted a different approach—constantly moving, maintaining a deliberately slow pace. I never felt pressured by the speed of my teammates. My strategy was to concentrate on the immediate next two steps, rather than fixating on the distant destination. This allowed me to stay in the moment, appreciating each step of the journey rather than being consumed by the final goal.

Continuing for another 45 minutes of relentless ascent, we reached a TIMS (Trekking Information Management System) checkpoint. Here, registration formalities awaited us. From this point, a mere 20-minute sprint uphill led us to the welcoming haven of Namche Bazaar, the unofficial capital of the Khumbu region in Nepal!

Day 06: Acclimatization Day, Namche Bazaar (11,286 ft / 3440 m, 5.3 km trek)

Before delving into the hike itself, let’s touch on the importance of acclimatization. At altitudes ranging from 10,000 to 20,000 feet above sea level, the human body is exposed to lower air pressure than it is accustomed to, resulting in lesser oxygen availability. The oxygen level at 10,000 feet, for instance, drops to about 70% of the normal level. Considering the tremendous physical exertion involved in hiking, our body needs time to adapt (acclimatize) to the reduced oxygen supply at these heights.

Rapid ascents could lead to altitude sickness, characterized by symptoms that can range from dizziness, headaches, and nausea to more severe risks such as cerebral or pulmonary oedema. To mitigate these risks during the base camp trek, acclimatization typically begins at around the 11,500-foot (metre) mark.

Given that Namche Bazaar sits just below this crucial elevation, it serves as a major stop-off town for most trekkers and climbers heading for the base camp. They spend two nights here to prepare their bodies for the arduous journey ahead. While on acclimatization, adhering to two main guidelines is pivotal: ascending no more than 1000 to 1600 feet (300–500 metres) per day and taking a day off from uphill climbs for every 3000 feet (915 metres) gained.

Understanding the significance of acclimatization, we opted not to idly lounge but instead ventured out to trek slightly higher and back. Our chosen path led us to the Syangboche airstrip. Surprisingly, this ‘airstrip’ resembled more of a desolate patch of land than a bustling landing zone! Despite its bareness, it offered stunning panoramic views of Namche, a sight worth the trek. While some members of our expedition continued further to the Everest View Hotel, I opted out because of thick clouds obscuring visibility.

Namche is a valuable stop for restocking essentials and buying souvenirs, but I saved the latter for the return journey, mindful of our ascent ahead. This sherpa town also offers stunning views of several peaks.

Day 07: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (12,664 ft / 3860 m, 9.6 km trek)

Leaving behind the bustling energy of Namche Bazaar, we started off from the heart of Sagarmatha National Park. Initially, the trail presented a gentle incline. This 4-km stretch proved to be one of the easier sections of the trek, featuring a smooth, sandy terrain with occasional stair sections, and it offers a breathtaking panorama. As we continued, a valley appeared before us, and Ama Dablam (another mountain in the Himalayan range) gracefully danced in and out of our view. The Everest mountain range, including Lhotse, Nuptse, and the peak of Everest, stood proudly in the distance.

The descent towards the valley was more challenging, as the terrain was uneven and rocky. Crossing a suspension bridge marked a checkpoint, where our permits were duly examined. Having crossed the river, we faced a formidable trek to regain the lost elevation and more. The 2-kilometre uphill trail had many short, rocky switchbacks, testing our endurance as we trudged towards Tengboche, another village. As altitude increased, the tree line receded, offering splendid views of the valley, and snow-capped peaks adorned the horizon.

Perched atop the village’s highest point, the majestic Tengboche Monastery welcomed us, and we were at liberty to explore its grounds. The monastery held an air of reverence

Day 08: Tengboche to Dingboche (14,469 ft / 4410 m, 10.5 km trek)

Leaving Tengboche behind, we began our trail into a forest cover, passing by Deboche. Beyond this quaint village, the path gradually ascended, eventually leading to a wall with inscribed stones. We soon reached another suspension bridge, which provided breathtaking vistas of Ama Dablam and the sprawling mountainous landscape. As we continued on, Pangboche village emerged, offering us a much-needed respite and a chance to marvel at the Everest mountain range.

From Pangboche, we steadily ascended up the valley. Although we continued to gain elevation, the slope proved relatively gentle without steep inclines. The sight of Ama Dablam continued to accompany us, but only a glimpse of Mount Everest’s peak was visible at this stage, which was compensated by the grandeur of two other mountains, Lhotse and Nuptse, the former being the fourth highest in the world, after Everest, K2, and Kanchenjunga.

We passed by Shomare, the final village before Dingboche and a milestone in our base camp trek, and continued our trail along the valley’s edge. After crossing yet another river, Dingboche slowly came into view.

The camaraderie I experienced along the trail was heart-warming. Although my fellow trekkers were strangers, there was mutual encouragement and support. It was as if the very essence of mountain culture dictated that everyone be friendly by default. I shared the trail with an Australian trekker for two days, and was pleasantly surprised when he admired my consistent pace and predicted that I would succeed in reaching the EBC. This unforgettable exchange underlines the beauty of human connections forged amidst the challenges of the journey.

Day 09: Dingboche Acclimatization (14,469 ft / 4410 m, 5.1 km trek)

The Nangkartshang Peak acclimatization hike unveiled unparalleled views of the Imja valley. Clusters of sherpa flags marked the beginning of a sandy, winding trail up the mountain’s ridge. As we ascended, we could see the valley stretching towards Chhukung on one side and towards Lobuche on the other, separated by the majestic Nangkartshang Mountain. Glaciers, rivers, and snow-capped peaks (Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Island Peak, Ama Dablam) flanked both sides as we navigated the zigzag ascent.

Gazing back, we could see Dingboche sprawling below us and sections of the trail from Tengboche. Considering the continuous uphill climb, a steady pace and frequent breaks were crucial. As the altitude increased, the path became rockier. Spotting the sherpa flags at Nangkartshang’s summit signalled the end of our ascent. The downward trail was slippery, and we had to tread carefully.

Day 10: Dingboche to Lobuche (16,109 ft / 4910 m, 7.9 km trek)

The trek to Lobuche, a small settlement near Mount Everest, began along the same path taken for the Nangkartshang Peak trek the previous day. However, rather than ascending the peak, the trail continued along a gentle incline, deeper into the valley.

The quaint village of Thukla lay ahead across the river. Reaching the village, we took a breather, unwound, and replenished our energy before resuming the remaining stretch from Dingboche to Lobuche—deemed the toughest segment, involving a demanding climb zigzagging up to the Thukla Pass and then the pinnacle of the mountain.

Here, surrounded by stunning views, lay several memorials honouring the ill-fated climbers who died on the Himalayan peaks. These small stone and cement structures were constructed by their families, well-wishers, or local sherpas, and were adorned with prayer flags. The most notable among the memorials was that of Scott Fischer, a renowned American mountaineer and mountain guide who perished in the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. Looking at his picture and reading his name engraved on his tombstone evoked deep emotions.

The remaining quarter of the hike followed the left side of the Khumbu Glacier, with a slight elevation gain as we approached Lobuche.

Day 11, Part 1: Lobuche to Gorak Shep (16,814 ft / 5125 m, 4.5 km trek)

The day’s trek was divided into two parts: the trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep, and the round-trip hike from Gorak Shep to EBC and back.

Starting from Lobuche, we navigated a sandy and rocky path alongside the Khumbu Glacier. The trail gradually ascended, treating us to increasingly captivating vistas of the glacier and the surrounding mountains. Passing several sherpa flag monuments, we felt closer to the EBC. As we neared Gorak Shep—the last village near the EBC, or rather a temporary settlement of guest houses, the Mount Everest summit appeared behind Nupste, offering a tantalizing glimpse of the world’s highest peak. Kala Patthar and Pumori (two other mountains in the Himalayan range) also emerged into view. On reaching Gorak Shep, we checked in at a teahouse to lunch and prepare for the second leg of the day.

Day 11, Part 2: Gorak Shep to Everest Base Camp and Back (17,598 ft / 5364 m, 7.2 km trek)

After lunch break, we resumed our trek towards the EBC. The trail was a blend of sandy, rocky, and slippery sections requiring careful attention, but the incline remained moderate. As we approached the Khumbu Icefall, the terrain shifted to clearer, pristine white ice along the trail. We passed by sherpa prayer flags and, in minutes, reached the iconic ‘Everest Base Camp’ rock, decked with numerous prayer flags. However, this spot is the trekkers’ base camp, not the official base camp used by Everest climbers, situated farther down the glacier.

On reaching the EBC, we were consumed by a wave of emotions. For a good 45 minutes the atmosphere reverberated with celebratory energy—people danced and sang, cheering the monumental achievement, and enthusiastically captured moments with their cameras.

After taking in the surroundings to our hearts’ content, we explored the area around the base camp. Soon it was time to retrace our steps along the rocky trail and return to Gorak Shep. The jubilant feeling lingered on, making the trek back less tedious.

Day 12, Part 1: Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar and Back (18,176 ft / 5540 m, 3.7 km trek)

Kala Patthar, although not considered a proper mountain, offers spectacular views of the Everest and other major mountains. Desiring to catch the sunrise from the peak of Kala Patthar, we began our trek at 4 a.m. It was a windy morning, and we braced ourselves against the cold gusts.

The ascent started along a relatively smooth path, gradually winding its way up the mountainside. What set this hike apart was the continuous revelation of panoramic beauty along the entire length the hike—breathtaking vistas of the Everest mountain range and the surrounding Sagarmatha National Park, unlike the other treks, where the peaks offer the most stunning views. However, despite the allure, pinpointing the summit remained tricky for most of the trek. After capturing the sunrise, we descended to Gorak Shep for breakfast and the next leg towards Pheriche, a popular village.

Day 12, Part 2: Gorak Shep to Pheriche (13,911 ft / 4240 m, 11.5 km trek)

After the thrilling early morning hike up the Kala Patthar and a filling breakfast at Gorak Shep, we gathered our belongings and started the descent along the base camp trail. Everyone trekked at their own pace. After three hours of trekking, I arrived in Lobuche, where I took a lunch break before continuing towards Pheriche. This time the trek involved a challenging descent towards a flowing glacier-fed river. We chose the lower trail from Thukla towards Pheriche instead of the higher trail to Dingboche. The final 4-kilometre stretch ran parallel to the river, leading me closer to Pheriche.

Day 13: Pheriche to Namche Bazaar (11,286 ft / 3440 m, 19.5 km trek)

On day 12, we retraced our steps along the return route of days 7 and 8 (from Namche to Tengboche and then to Dingboche, nestled next to Pheriche). Anticipating a longer day, I set off early to avoid arriving late in Namche. Initially, the trail goes downhill from the village, crossing the river, and gradually ascends the valley wall. However, during this phase we steadily lost altitude as we descended.

Reaching Tengboche, the midpoint of the day’s trek, I paused for lunch. After capturing some snapshots of the majestic Everest mountain range and savouring the scenery awhile, I pushed ahead, eventually arriving in Namche Bazaar around 7 p.m., having relished a 2 hour nighttime trek.

Day 13: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (9,318 ft / 2840 m, 19.1 km trek)

After an incredible 13 days of soaking in the breathtaking beauty of the Himalayas, our ambitious trek was coming to a close. We bought some souvenirs at Namche Bazaar and began the final stretch towards Lukla.

The trail from Namche Bazaar led us immediately into a swift descent, which gradually eased up for about 10 kilometres. However, the last segment of the trail presented an uphill climb, leading us back to Lukla, marking the end of our unforgettable expedition.

Day 14: Lukla to Kathmandu

A 40-minute flight from Lukla to Ramechhap whisked us through a surreal panorama of the awe-inspiring Himalayas, following which a 5 hour road trip deposited us safely in Kathmandu.

Conclusion

Looking back on this one-of-a-kind Everest Base Camp trek, I feel that the challenges and triumphs I met with along the way have made me better appreciate life’s expansiveness and the remarkable possibilities it holds.

Spending my college days immersed in Hemingway’s novels had a profound influence on my adventurous spirit. His stories often centred on characters confronting challenges, embracing rugged lifestyles, and seeking significance in life’s adventures. They sparked a desire in me to explore the world firsthand and to confront the unknown with bravery and resolve.

This trek was a testament to my courage and determination, both traits of Hemingway’s characters. My quest to conquer heights, confront challenges, and experience the mysteries of the Himalayas resonated with Hemingway’s pursuit of life’s adventures. The belief that the journey itself holds immeasurable worth was instrumental in my decision to explore the world.

Every man’s life ends the same way. It is only the details of how he lived and how he died that distinguish one man from another. ― Ernest Hemingway