Sandakphu—the highest point in West Bengal, India, at 11,930 feet (3630 metres)—is the dream of any trekker worth their salt. Why? Because it presents stunning views of the world’s four highest peaks: Mounts Everest (29,030 feet / 8850 metres), Kanchenjunga (28,169 feet / 8586 metres), Lhotse (27,940 feet / 8501 metres), and Makalu (27,838 feet / 8475 metres). It stands atop the Singalila Ridge and is positioned on the border between India and Nepal.
Opting for the Road Less Travelled
Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
………………………………………………
Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear.
(Robert Frost, “The Road Not Taken”)
Life is full of choices. When I brought up the idea of trekking to Sandakphu, my friends were curious. One of them questioned my decision, wondering why I didn’t opt for a Land Rover to reach the destination more easily. My answer was simple: I am an explorer at heart. Taking the road less travelled always appeals to me. Trekking offered a chance to see the unspoiled beauty of the Singalila National Park and its wildlife. The prospect of hiking through thick forests and open meadows was exciting. What set this trek apart was that it followed a path along a mountain ridge that marked the border between India and Nepal.
Indiahikes
I chose the trekking agency Indiahikes for the Sandakphu trek because of its dedication to trekking and environmental preservation. It emphasizes being mindful of resources like water and fuel, as well as proper disposal of waste. As trekkers, it is our responsibility to leave the mountains better.
Indiahikes is a reputable company with a professional approach. All participants are required to pass a fitness test. A month before our trek, we received an extensive one-hour briefing covering details of the trek: how it would be conducted, preparation guidelines, essential items to carry, safety procedures, and more. It ensured we were adequately prepared for the adventure.
Day 1: Bagdogra to Sepi (7-hour drive, 130 km & 6400 feet)
Day 1 of the trek brought together a bunch of 14 strangers (Raam, Shimul, Manu, Pooja, Madhu, Harsh, Rachit, Mohak, Atharva, Charvi, Daksh, Pratik, Siddhant, and I) from different corners of India, sharing a hunger for adventure. We converged at Bagdogra airport or the NJP railway station, the starting point of our journey, where jeeps were waiting to take us to the forest village Sepi, the gateway to the Sandakphu trek.
As the wheels started turning, so did the introductions. It was like the opening act of a play, where each of us took centre stage for a brief moment, revealing fragments of our previous trekking tales. Our hometowns, work, family, previous expeditions—all became part of this unplanned script over the next few days. Conversations flowed effortlessly, the banter echoing through the vehicle as if we were old friends catching up on lost time.
After we crossed Mirik, a warm and inviting tea house welcomed us. The aroma of home-cooked food filled the air, tantalizing our taste buds. As we savoured the local delicacies, the conversations continued.
Charvi spotted a cat, and within moments they were in their own little world. We were getting ready to move on. That’s when things got interesting. The cat decided it wasn’t done with her. It clung to her, not ready to part ways. It was as if Charvi had cast some spell. Wherever she goes she carries an aura that animals can’t resist. It’s a gift, really.
Bellies full and spirits high, we continued our travel towards the Indiahikes Sepi base camp. Anticipation about our upcoming adventure filled the air. On reaching the camp, Walter, our guide, welcomed us with a warm smile. After check-in and a quick refresh, we congregated in a hall. Walter, Vikram, and Balkumar Karkiz, the trio orchestrating this trek, took centre stage—armed with maps of our trekking route for the next six days—explaining our expedition. Their excitement was infectious, their voices echoing the thrill of the impending adventure. As they finished, a chorus of questions filled the air. The most common query? A chance to witness snow. Faces lit up as Walter nodded affirmatively.
After dinner, we retired to our rooms, which was when reality struck—the biting cold. I glanced at the thermometer: 0 degree Centigrade! It was a forewarning about the icy embrace that awaited us in the coming days as we would ascend further up the mountains.
Day 2: Sepi to Samanden (Distance 14 km, 8-hour trek, altitude gain from 6400 to 7760 feet)
On day 2, we were treated to a breathtaking sunrise. The mountains, shrouded in delicate morning mist, gradually revealed their majestic peaks as the sun started ascending.
The day kicked off with a practical necessity—a medical examination to check our blood pressure and SPO2 levels, the metrics for evaluating our readiness for the journey ahead. After the check-up, we gathered for breakfast. Despite our heightened anticipation, conversations flowed, laughter echoed, and a camaraderie began to develop. Next on the agenda was packing our kit bags: each item meticulously placed, every buckle tightened. Boots fastened, backpacks strapped, and faces adorned with a mix of determination and curiosity, we huddled together for a group picture, before setting off on our much-awaited trek.
The trail led us to a quaint bridge stretching across a babbling stream. The gentle rush of water below provided a soothing melody. Moving forward, we reached a village named Ramam, where we paused for lunch. Once recharged, we delved into the forest. A sanctuary of pine and oak trees provided a welcome shade. Amidst the rustling of the leaves, Walter, our guide and provocateur, entertained us with riddles, injecting an element of fun into the trek. Soon, the forest gave way to the edge of Samanden village. A group of young boys were playing football, and we momentarily stopped to enjoy their game. The transition from forest to village marked the approaching end of the day’s trek.
We checked in for the night at a tea house. The evening turning into a game of Mafia. Laughter and strategy blended as we tried to identify the elusive mafia amongst us. Post-dinner, Walter delivered the difficult news: “Tomorrow’s trek is going to be very difficult. We have to make a huge ascent of 3500-plus feet.” In the privacy of our minds, we mulled over the climb that awaited us. How would our bodies respond to the altitude? Will we be able to forge ahead? These questions lingered as we dozed off.
Day 3: Samanden to Molley (Distance 10 km, 7-hour trek, altitude gain from 7760 to 11,220 feet)
We woke up to an unexpected challenge: The bathroom tap was dry—no sign of water. It didn’t take long to realize the cold had played a frosty trick on our water supply. Everything was frozen! Eventually, as hot water made its way to us, we finished our morning ablutions and gathered for breakfast. The Tibetan bread and homemade jam was delicious, not to mention the hot tea, which felt like an elixir, soothing our senses. Finally, equipped with layers to combat the chilly mountain air, we were ready for the day’s trek.
Within just five minutes into our trail, we were inside the Singalila National Park. The ascent was demanding, as the incline was steep, but what unfolded before our eyes was a spectacle of nature’s grandeur. The thick bamboo, oak, magnolia, and rhododendron forest was a symphony of green hues that stretched endlessly. We moved at a measured pace, appreciating the untouched wilderness with each step.
A pause in our trek gave Pooja an opportunity to enlighten us about lichens. She explained that lichens thrived in environments where the air was clean, thus serving as environmental indicators.
As we continued our ascent, some members of our team (Walter, Sidd, Atharva, Mohit, and Madhu) found themselves craving for additional challenges. The incline, it seemed, wasn’t presenting enough challenge for these adventurous souls. So they decided to turn the trek into a a push-ups challenge. Their unexpected display of energy was both entertaining and uplifting.
Around midday, we reached a point named “factory”. However, to our surprise, there was no factory in sight. Walter explained that during the British era, there were aspirations to establish a paper factory, but the venture never took off, leaving behind a spot named in anticipation of the industry. Along the way, two mountain dogs joined us, bringing some warmth to our trek. We shared a portion of our food with them.
Post-lunch, we resumed our trek with a steady rhythm. And then it happened—the first sighting of snow on the trail. A collective excitement rippled through the group. It seemed as if the mountains were gradually revealing their winter cloak.
With renewed vigour we pushed ahead and reached a small village in the forest called Molley (11,000 feet). A warm-down exercise provided a soothing respite from physical exertion. After having hot soup, Walter outlined the next day’s plan—a trek along a stony road leading to Phalut (the second highest peak in West Bengal, at 11,800 feet). And as usual, the evening was filled with a spirit of togetherness. We spent the night in tents—a first for many of us.
At the unholy hour of 2 a.m., my sleep was abruptly shattered by a relentless cacophony of barking dogs. Too fatigued to investigate, I lay in my tent, attempting to drown out the noise and resume my sleep. Later I learnt from fellow trekkers that a group of trespassing yaks was the unwitting target of our vigilant canine companions.
Day 4: Molley to Phalut to Sabargram (Distance 15 km, 8-hour trek, altitude gain from 11,220 feet to 11,450 feet via 11,810 feet)
Today we started our trek at 5 a.m. Our mission for the day—witnessing the Sleeping Buddha of the Himalayas bathed in the golden hues of sunrise. (Mount Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, is called the Sleeping Buddha because of its resemblance to a reclining figure.) The biting cold outside the warmth of our sleeping bags made getting up a challenge. A hurried breakfast and a steaming cup of tea provided a brief respite from the cold.
Sleeping Buddha - Kanchenjunga range
Mount Everest and Makalu
As we hiked in predawn silence towards a vantage point, a nagging worry lingered in my mind because winter clouds were threatening to obscure our sighting. But luck was on our side that day. The sun slowly came out, revealing the Sleeping Buddha. It was a sight to behold! The mountains, the sun, and our shared elation became a snapshot frozen in time.
Following an hour-long break in Sabargram, we resumed our hike towards Phalut. This leg of the trek presented a stark contrast to the lush trails of the Singalila forest we traversed the day before. Instead of the winding paths through dense foliage, we encountered a stone off-road motor route. The change in terrain was striking. With higher altitude, the landscape became rockier, with sparse vegetation.
Initially, we followed the road. As we progressed, the trail diverged, leading us towards barren mounds. A highlight along this stretch was the sight of border stones demarcating the boundary between India and Nepal. Unlike the heavily fenced and guarded international boundaries, this one was entirely open. And we had fun jumping across the invisible line between the two countries. The shifting time zone on our mobile phones added an interesting element to our border-crossing antics. Closer to Phalut the landscape changed again. It was covered in a pristine blanket of snow, and the trees had a delicate layer of snowflakes. The silence was punctuated by the occasional soft crunch of snow underfoot.
We had underestimated the challenges of the stony trail. It took a toll on our feet. The unforgiving terrain, coupled with relentless wind, made every step an effort. Yet we pressed on, eager to conquer the hurdles in our path. After what felt like an eternity, Phalut finally emerged in the distance. Upon arriving, we took refuge in a tea house, where a warm cup of tea and some snacks revived us.
Phalut had more in store for us. An observatory offered a vantage point to view the surrounding landscapes. From this position, I was able to not only appreciate the landscape but also capture images of Himalayan griffins, long-billed crows, and other birds that graced the region.
As we resumed our journey towards Sabargram (a tiny village at 11,624 feet) after an hour-long break, dense fog enveloped our path, hindering visibility. Each step forward became formidable. An hour had passed when we saw the silhouette of Sabargram, which brought a collective sigh of relief. The prospect of a warm meal sounded divine
Day 5: Sabargram to Aahl (Distance 12 km, 7-hour trek, altitude gain from 11,450 feet to 11,930 feet)
At 5:30 a.m., a whisper of curiosity nudged me awake. I unzipped the tent to the breathtaking sight of the Sleeping Buddha draped in clouds, appearing as if sailing across the morning sky. Without a second thought, I stepped out and hurried to the nearest vantage point. The panorama was nothing short of spectacular.
After breakfast we set off towards Aahl, another small village. Trees and bushes, draped in snow, stood like ethereal sculptures. The entire landscape wore a coat of white, transforming the surroundings into a winter enchantment. Amidst this mesmerizing scenery, the words of Robert Frost’s poem “Stopping by the woods on a snowy evening” echoed in my mind. In that moment, I allowed myself to be a participant in my version of Frost’s contemplative journey. The woods whispered an invitation to stop, to rest, to stare, and to become one with the tranquillity surrounding us. Although my heart yearned to linger in the snowy haven, I understood my obligation to continue the journey. As I moved forward, I carried with me the imprints of the snowy forest, a momentary escape that left an indelible mark on my soul.
We took an hour-long midday break at a place called Thokum before resuming our hike. Despite having seen snow during our trek, we wondered if we’d be fortunate enough to witness snowfall. Little did we know that our wishes would be answered. As we hiked along the trail, the heavens seemed to open up suddenly, and we found ourselves enveloped in a dance of falling snowflakes. The unexpected snowfall was an indelible event in our trek.
Throughout our journey, Madhu had held on to the hope of experiencing snowfall. And when that moment finally arrived, her reaction was nothing short of magical: With unbridled excitement, she burst into a spontaneous dance, echoing the pure joy of a child. It reminded us of the simple pleasures found in embracing the beauty of nature.
As we were enjoying the snowfall, the weather changed. Cold winds started blowing, and a thick veil of fog descended. We trudged through the swirling fog and biting cold for an hour until we reached Aahl, where we retired for the night.
Day 6: Aahl to Sandakphu to Gurdum (Distance 8.5 km, 8-hour trek, altitude loss from 11,930 to 7400 feet)
Again, I woke up at 5:30 a.m., eager to catch the sunrise, but thanks to thick fog and a howling wind, my chances were dashed. As we finished our breakfast and prepared to set off, Walter arrived with unexpected news. "Guys, the weather is extremely unfavourable. Attempting the ascent to the peak would be risky. I recommend we abandon the plan and head towards Gurdum instead.” Everyone was stunned, as our expectations came crashing down like a house of cards.
That we might not be able to reach the peak was tough to accept. In a collective voice, we suggested moving towards the peak. The plan was clear—we would make an attempt if the weather turned favourable; if not, we would abandon the plan. To our surprise, Walter agreed, infusing a ray of hope.
Once we reached the peak area, Walter meticulously inspected the route and gave us a thumbs-up. Overjoyed, we started our ascent, every step slow and cautious. After 20 minutes, we reached the summit, and our faces lit up with excitement. Some broke out into dancing and jumping and twirling. Some embraced each other. It was a spectacular sight! We then started taking pictures.
Walter gathered us in a tight circle, and with a warm smile, he encouraged us to express our thoughts. A touching exchange of sentiments ensued. After spending an hour at the summit, we began our descent. Our destination for the day was Gurdum, a hamlet at 8000 feet. The trail ahead was a steep decline of 3500 feet, which tested our endurance and caused considerable strain on our knees. We stopped at a small village called Dupidara for lunch. Wanting a change of pace, many of us decided to unwind and relax by playing a game of Frisbee.
Post-lunch, we continued our descent until we reached Gurdum. A delightful surprise awaited us—hot-water bath, available for just 50 rupees. Given that we hadn’t had the luxury of a bath since day 1, many of us eagerly went for it. Someone remarked, “This is the best 50 rupees I have spent in my life!”
Being our last night together, we decided to share our experiences of the trek and its significance. Everyone took a moment to express their thoughts.
Atharva: “I always wanted to go trekking with many people, and I’m excited that this trek brought me together with a fantastic and diverse group of individuals.”
Charvi: “During the trek, there was a unique opportunity to carve out time for yourself, which is hard to find in our busy everyday lives. It also shook things up, making me think differently, especially when I shared experiences with people from different backgrounds.”
Manu: “This trek has given me important insights into how people in the area live and manage in the harsh cold weather.”
Daksh: “The trek gave me a great chance to connect with everyone in the group, and that makes me really happy. I’ve made some new friends through this journey that I really value.”
Rachit: “The best part of this trip was definitely seeing the Sleeping Buddha. It was an amazing experience, especially when I opened my tent and saw this majestic view right in front of me.”
Madhu: “Just three days before the trek, I was battling a high fever, and I doubted if I could make it. Miraculously, I recovered, and now I'm here with you all.”
Sidd: “We embraced a diehard attitude during trekking. Even when we felt utterly exhausted during the Phalut trek, we kept repeating ‘Yes, we can,’ and we indeed made it.”
Raam: “When my oxygen saturation plummeted to 60 and I felt utterly exhausted, Walter provided me with medicines and encouraged me to persist. I made it."
Pratik: “Our regular trips with friends and family at luxurious hotels had become monotonous for me. That’s why I chose to trek, appreciating nature and experience meeting new people.”
Mohak: “I usually find it hard to talk to people, but in this trek I was compelled to interact, and it helped me open up.”
Shimul: “I had a desire to witness snowfall, and it brought me joy when I finally experienced it.”
Walter once again surprised us, extending a wonderful gesture for Pooja’s 40th birthday—a birthday cake. Pooja commented: “In our family, instead of giving physical gifts for birthdays, we focus on creating special experiences. To celebrate my 40th birthday this year, I decided to go on the Sandakphu trek, believing that the journey itself would be a valuable and unforgettable gift.”
Day 7: Gurdum to Sepi (Distance 4 km, 3-hour trek, altitude loss from 7400 to 6400 feet)
Today marked the last day of our trek, and we got ready with that bittersweet realization. Having bought souvenirs from the tea shop, we started our final descent back to Sepi, our hearts filled with mixed emotions. On reaching the Srikhola bridge, we paused to take in the serene beauty of the flowing stream. In less than three hours, we were back in Sepi. The place felt different now after our adventure: It was not as exciting as when we first arrived.
As a farewell gesture, we were treated to rhododendron juice, a traditional beverage with several medicinal properties. Expressions of gratitude filled the air as we thanked Walter and his dedicated team for curating the week-long adventure. Soon after, we boarded our vehicles, beginning our journey back to Bagdogra and Siliguri.
The Sandakphu–Phalut trek has made me realize that trekking isn’t merely about reaching the summit; it is also about the connections and the memories we make. Helping struggling fellow members, caring for one another, sharing not just our belongings but our experiences, and exchanging motivating words—these moments became the heartbeat of this adventure, leaving an enduring mark on me.
Choosing the road less travelled—trekking, instead of the more conventional motoring—turned out to be a transformative experience.
I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.
(Robert Frost, “The Road Not Taken”)
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Really Wow! I believe this would be one of ypur best experiemce