Watching powerful buffaloes charge through slushy tracks, mud and water splashing, is a sight to behold. Kambala, a traditional buffalo race held in coastal Karnataka (a South Indian state), is a thrilling spectacle that draws countless spectators each year.
One afternoon, my friend Rajashekar Meti called me. ‘There’s a Kambala event happening in Moodbidri, near my place,’ he said excitedly. ‘You should come!’
‘I’m in!’ I replied without hesitation, barely able to contain my excitement.
Moodbidri is a serene town in Karnataka’s lush coastal region. When I arrived early in the morning, Rajashekar was there to welcome me, his usual enthusiasm lighting up his face. He was accompanied by his friend Suresh, who greeted me with a warm smile. We began our day with a delicious breakfast of idlis (steamed rice cakes), crispy vadas (ground lentil fritters), and steaming sambar (lentil-based vegetable stew) at a local eatery. After a quick freshening, we set off for the Kambala venue.
The word Kambala comes from kampa-kala, referring to the muddy tracks where the races take place. The race season runs from November to March, during which over 45 races are organized by different Kambala associations.
The origins of Kambala are rooted in legend. Some believe it began as a festival among farmers, who raced buffaloes to honour gods and pray for a good harvest. Others trace its origins to the Hoysala kings, who tested buffaloes for battle, later transforming the trials into a competitive sport. Over time, feudal lords continued the tradition. Eventually, it evolved into a grand public event.
The Kambala in Moodbidri is known as the Koti-Chennaya Jodukere Kambala, named after two legendary local heroes Koti and Chennaya, revered in the region’s folklore. The term Jodukere refers to paired buffaloes that race in teams.
When we arrived at the venue, the 2-day Kambala festival was about to begin. Farmers, proud of their well-groomed buffaloes, gathered to showcase their strength and speed. The event commenced with an inaugural ceremony, in which participants paraded with their buffaloes and each team was presented with two coconuts as a welcome gesture.
The buffaloes, adorned with headpieces and sporting rope bridles around their head, stood at the starting point of the slushy, water-filled track—two parallel lanes, each about 140 metres long and 10 metres wide, are ploughed and soaked ahead to create the perfect conditions for the contest.
Each race features two powerful buffaloes and a skilled jockey, supported by a team of ten farmers. At the starting point, the team calms the buffaloes and carefully positions them for a quick start.
As the race begins, the jockey skilfully guides them down the muddy track, water splashing high with every stride. Once the animals reach the finish line, the supporting team swiftly steps in to bring them under control—a display of teamwork and coordination.
Between races, the buffaloes are doused with water to cool their body and reduce friction on their skin, minimizing the risk of injury.
By late morning, the races were in full swing. The first category of the race was the Negilu race (negilu means ‘plough’ in Kannada language), involving younger buffaloes, those new to racing. Here, the jockey holds on to a lightweight wooden plough tied to the buffaloes.
As the day wore on, the harsh sunlight made photography challenging, draining my energy. I glanced at Rajashekar, who seemed to be struggling with the heat as well. Noticing my discomfort, he suggested, ‘Let’s break for lunch and return later. The event will continue through the night, and the real competition picks up in the evening.’
When we returned to the venue in the evening, the setting sun cast a golden glow over the tracks. And the crowd had swollen, their cheers were louder, as the next race category, the Hagga race, had begun (hagga means ‘rope’).
Unlike the Negilu race, the Hagga race involves seasoned buffaloes, which are faster, more powerful, and more disciplined. And the jockey controls them with just a rope harness while nudging them forward.
As night fell and floodlights illuminated the track, the next category began—the Adda Halage race. Here, a horizontal wooden plank (adda halage in Kannada) is tied to the buffaloes, and the jockey balances on it as he races down the track. ‘This requires skill and experience,’ Rajashekar explained. A few jockeys struggled to maintain their balance, tumbling off mid-race.
The final category, the Kene Halage race, was the most thrilling and challenging. The wooden block used in this race has two small holes. As the buffaloes run, water squirts through these holes. The faster the buffaloes race, the higher the water shoots up.
To capture the action up close, I positioned myself close to the finish line, towards which the buffaloes charge at full speed. Standing just feet away from these powerful animals was both exhilarating and nerve-racking. My heart pounded as I framed the shots!
Despite the massive crowd, the event was flawlessly organized. The enthusiastic spectators maintained discipline, ensuring a pleasant experience.
Curious about the preparation behind these races, I spoke to a few farmers and learned about the effort that goes into training the buffaloes. They swim daily in ponds or tanks to build stamina, are walked and jogged regularly, and made to sprint on muddy tracks as the race season neared. They receive oil massages to improve blood circulation and are fed a rich diet of horse gram, hay, sprouted grains, watermelon, pumpkin, and mineral supplements. In hot weather, they are kept cool with fans and water sprayers.
Even deep into the night, the festival was alive with energy. Stalls offering food, souvenirs, and entertainment bustled with visitors. At some point, exhaustion set in, and we decided to call it a night.
Kambala is more than a race—it is a living tradition, a legacy passed down through generations. As the festival’s echoes faded, a deep sense of awe and connection lingered in my heart.
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Awesome images and description Dev....as always it is a treat to read your blogs
Superb! Was always curious about these races. Now I know how it is done.
Lovely Dev. Very simple and neat description 🤩