The Indus valley civilization, also known as Harappan civilization, was one of the three earliest civilizations of the world, the other two being Mesopotamia and Egypt. During my school days, I learned about this ancient civilization and was captivated by the excavations at Mohenjo Daro and Harappa. Forty years later, I found myself at Dholavira, a significant Harappan site in Kutch, Gujarat State (west-central India), accompanied by my friend Latha Prabhakaran and our local guide Vikramsinh Sodha. In this blog, I’ll share our exploration of this remarkable site.
One early morning, we left Bhuj (a city in Gujarat), bound for Dholavira, about 150 km away. On our way, we briefly stopped at the Tropic of Cancer to take some photos. After about 120 km, Vikram smiled and said that we were on the Road to Heaven. It is a scenic 30-km highway connecting Khavda (a small handicrafts town) to Dholavira—one of the most breathtaking routes in the area.
The road, not yet fully paved, cuts across the Rann of Kutch Lake (a massive seasonal salt marsh), offering stunning views of blue water, white crystal beds, and clear skies. Several bird species can be seen along the stretch.
As we drove down the road, Vikram commented, ‘Great spot for birdwatching,’ pointing at the lake. Soon, we saw flocks of pink flamingos, their vibrant feathers contrasting with the blue waters. After an exhilarating drive, we arrived at Dholavira.
Dholavira Archaeological Museum
Our first stop in Dholavira was the Dholavira Archaeological Museum, maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Situated on the excavated site, the museum showcases artefacts uncovered during excavations and historical information about Dholavira and the broader Indus valley civilization.
Though modest in size, it holds a valuable collection of archaeological finds, maps of ancient trade routes, and photographs from the excavations, providing a captivating glimpse into the ancient Harappan civilization.
Visitors are greeted by intricately carved seals, including those with the unicorn motif, reflecting the importance of trade and communication in Harappan society.
A rich display of beads, gemstones, and jewellery, fashioned with precision, showcases the artistry and craftsmanship of the Harappans. And stone weights and coins highlight the economic systems that were in place.
Large terracotta pots—used for storage or ceremonies provide insight into the daily life and rituals of the Harappan people. Among the exhibits are gameboards, possibly used for playing early forms of chess or other strategic games, suggesting that leisure and recreation were also integral to Harappan life.
Indus Valley Civilization
The Indus valley civilization, dating from the Bronze Age, between circa 3300 BCE and 1300 BCE, flourished along the Indus River, spanning present-day Pakistan, Afghanistan, and northwestern India. Renowned for its well-planned cities, advanced water supply systems, knowledge of metallurgy, and trade connections with the West, especially Mesopotamia, the Indus civilization was one of the ‘pristine’ civilizations on our planet, according to William Belcher, an American anthropologist; that is, it developed independently of other civilizations.
Over time, several key Harappan sites have been discovered, which offer glimpses into their rich urban life. Of these, six major sites have been archaeologically detailed: Harappa and Ganeriwala (Punjab, Pakistan), Mohenjo Daro (Sindh, Pakistan), Dholavira and Lothal (Gujarat), and Rakhigarhi (Haryana, India).
Dholavira
Dholavira was a Harappan city dating to around 3000 BCE. What is now a deserted archaeological site was once a bustling city, spread over 100 hectares between two seasonal rivers Mansar and Manhar fed by rainwater. The city—strategically built on elevated ground between these two streams where water flow was ideal, neither calm nor too torrential—thrived as a major hub until about 1750 BCE, when it was mysteriously abandoned. After about a century, it was reoccupied between 1650 BCE and 1450 BCE. However, during this final phase, the population was significantly reduced, and the city’s footprint shrank to its fortified citadel, marking the end of its grandeur.
Dholavira was discovered in 1964 by Jagat Joshi, but only in 1989, extensive excavation began by the Archaeological Survey of India, under the supervision of R.S. Bisht. Between 1989 and 2005, 13 field digs unearthed evidence shedding light on sophisticated urban planning, water management systems, and everyday lives of its inhabitants. In 2021, Dholavira gained UNESCO World Heritage status. Excavations continue to reveal new insights into the ancient city.
The Archaeological Survey of India has mapped out the city’s layout and displayed it near the site entrance to give an idea of how this ancient urban centre once thrived.
Dholavira was a well-planned city with three distinct sections: the citadel, the middle town, and the lower town. The citadel and middle town had their own fortifications. The citadel, believed to have been the residence of the Harappan elite or royalty, comprised a castle and a bailey. A large ceremonial ground separated the upper-class area from the middle town.
The city had the most advanced and earliest-developed water resource and storage system: a complex network of check dams, water channels, reservoirs, and wells. In the arid Kutch, where rainfall is scarce and the two rivers provided limited freshwater, the town planners’ ingenuity to effectively manage and conserve the vital resource is impressive.
Eastern Reservoir
Eastern reservoir, the first notable feature upon entering Dholavira, is a large trench-like structure, which, in fact, is the largest water reservoir discovered among Harappan sites. About 74 metres long and 30 metres wide, it is about three times the size of the Great Bath at Mohenjo Daro. Carved directly into the bedrock, the reservoir includes a rock-cut well with inbuilt steps. Historians believe this may be the earliest known stepwell. However, numerous figurines, including a unicorn, were excavated from this site, suggesting the reservoir might have been used for rituals and ceremonies in later stages of the Harappan civilization, rather than for water storage.
Northern Gate
The northern gate of Dholavira, connecting the castle area to a large ceremonial ground, is an architectural marvel—it stands out with its elaborate L-shaped staircase, flanked by chambers on either side. Evidence suggests that a massive two-storeyed door once stood here, adding to the grandeur of the entrance.
One of Dholavira’s most remarkable finds is the Dholavira Signboard, located in a side chamber of the northern gateway. It is a wooden panel about 3 metre wide with ten large symbols (each measuring about 37 cm) in gypsum inscribed on it. Although the board had decayed, the symbols were left intact.
This inscription, among the longest in the Indus script, has one symbol repeated four times, suggesting a literate society. It also makes the signboard one of Indus civilization’s most significant artefacts.
The Citadel
The citadel, sprawled over an elevated area, was the heart of Dholavira, serving as the administrative hub. Its imposing stone walls, towering above the rest of the city, reflected its strategic importance. The fortified complex housed the ruling class and may also have functioned as a religious centre.
Thick , towering walls of stone and mud-brick around the castle, designed for strength and durability, made the castle nearly impossible to breach.
Bailey
Bailey, the western part of the citadel, is an enclosed space spanning an area of 123 square metres and is strategically connected to the castle through the east gate. It is fortified with towering walls on three sides—north, west, and south—while its eastern side shares a wall with the castle. The bailey likely served as an administrative or residential section for the aristocratic officers and possibly housed important governance activities. Its proximity to the castle and secure positioning within the citadel underscore its significance.
Among the ruins, traces of what might have been a bead workshop are also found.
Stormwater Drainage System
Dholavira’s stormwater drainage exemplifies the Harappan civilization’s inventiveness in water management. The system was designed to efficiently collect and channel rainwater through a network of drains that ran across the city.
The network included both small and large drains, all connecting to a main drain under the broad streets tall enough for a person to walk through. The drains featured slopes, steps, cascades, and manholes, which served as air ducts or water relief vents to regulate water flow and prevent flooding. Paved floors and capstones ensured the system’s durability and functionality.
Through these drains rainwater was directed to several reservoirs, thereby controlling surface runoff during the monsoon season and preventing waterlogging.
Circular Houses
Circular houses with a central support structure, a distinctive feature in the final phase of Dholavira’s history, are reminiscent of the traditional bhungas still seen in local Gujarati villages today.
Dholavira’s middle town was centred around a main road leading to the lower town. Houses here were rectangular and neatly arranged along the main road and branching streets.
Circular Well
A large circular well in the castle area showcases Harappan engineering expertise. It’s thought to have been connected to the southern reservoir through a network of pipes, creating a cascading system that allowed water to flow naturally from nearby reservoirs.
Visible rope marks around the well indicate that water was manually drawn. To conserve water, a channel redirected spills for reuse.
Next to the well is a royal bathing area, featuring steps leading into the water and a partial roof providing shade and privacy.
Granaries
Near the castle area are four sandstone granaries, each about 4 metres deep. Dholavira, an island with uncultivable land, relied on trade for food. The Harappans sealed storage pots and tightly closed the granaries to protect their provisions.
Stadium
Dholavira’s stadium stands as a testament to the city’s vibrant culture of sports and recreation. Located near the citadel, this large, open ground was designed for gatherings, events, and possibly competitive sports.
Dholavira’s Five-Reservoir System
Dholavira’s five-reservoir system, south of the citadel, was designed to manage water in a dry environment, demonstrating the city’s adaptation to arid conditions.
A channel diverted water from the Manhar River to fill Dholavira’s reservoirs, capturing rainwater. The first two tanks, partially rock-cut and partially constructed, were designed for sedimentation, letting silt settle and water to purify before it flowed to the next reservoir.
The third reservoir, centrally positioned, directly linked to the next one in the series, but was also connected to a well near the south gate of the citadel, ensuring a steady supply of water for the surrounding areas.
This reservoir illustrates the evolution of Harappan construction. Its base is rock-cut—formed by excavating solid natural rock—an early technique. Interlocked brick walls above the base and sandstone at the top with Multani mitti (fuller’s earth, a clay mixture) as a binder indicate advanced building methods.
The fourth reservoir is notable for its distinctive ramp. Gently inclined, this slope is believed by historians to have been used to roll carts, possibly drawn by animals, to transport water—an indication of a sophisticated understanding of water management and logistics.
The last reservoir in Dholavira appears to have been designed primarily for surplus water storage. When the reservoir reached its capacity, the surplus water was redirected for agriculture.
My Thoughts Amidst the Ancient Ruins
As I roamed the ancient ruins of Dholavira, it felt like walking through the corridors of time. Standing amidst the remnants of a once-thriving civilization, I imagined life 4000 years ago—the murmur of the Manhar River, the whispers of birds, and the bustling conversations of people who once lived here. It was surreal! I wondered whether they would ever have envisioned a future where their world would be but a memory. My mind swirled with questions about their disappearance and the untold stories left behind. As William Faulkner wrote, ‘The past is never dead. It’s not even past.’
The descriptions on what you saw through the lens takes me sorry walks me through the Indus Valley civilisation
I would read it again to walk through again
Wonderfully articulated Dev Sir. I've been here a couple of times but your account of the structures and their history makes me want to visit again with a new perspective now.