Gingee Fort: The Troy of the East
- devanandpaul
- Mar 25
- 7 min read
Gingee Fort, considered as one of the most impregnable fortresses of peninsular India, is located on the hills of Tamil Nadu, India. The story of the fort is woven with legend and history. Around AD 1200, a shepherd named Ananda Kon uncovered a treasure trove in the rocky caves of Gingee’s western hill, which changed his life. He gathered some warriors, built a small kingdom, and fortified the hill where he found the treasure. The settlement was named Anandagiri after him.
Over time, Gingee grew beyond its modest origins. In the 14th century, the Hoysalas (a southern Indian dynasty) took control of this kingdom. But it was under the Vijayanagara Empire (a Hindu empire in southern India), from 1383, that Gingee truly flourished. The empire had a three-tier administration: The emperor ruled from Hampi, the Nayakas (viceroys) governed major centres like Madurai, Gingee, and Thanjavur, and the Polygars (local chieftains) managed smaller regions.
The Nayakas of Gingee (Telugu rulers) reinforced the fort and constructed impressive palaces and temples, further boosting its strategic importance. After the Vijayanagara Empire weakened following the Battle of Talikota in 1565, they gradually established their independent rule.
Portuguese Jesuit missionary father Nicholas Pimenta, who visited Gingee in 1597, called it the greatest city in India, second only to Lisbon (Portugal). Gingee’s riches and splendour drew European traders, in particular, the Dutch, who sought trading rights, further proving Gingee’s economic significance.
As Gingee prospered, it attracted powerful enemies. In 1648, armies of Deccan sultanates Bijapur and Golconda, led by Mir Jumla (trusted aide of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb), attacked the fort, defeating the Nayakas and looting the fort’s vast treasure, worth 4 crore (40 million) rupees in cash and jewels. The sultanates took control over Gingee and renamed it Badshabad.
However, their rule did not last long. In 1677, the Maratha warrior Chhatrapati Shivaji, recognizing Gingee’s strategic importance, captured the city. He strengthened its defences by reinforcing the walls, which proved crucial a decade later when the Mughal Empire turned its attention to Gingee.
In 1689, Chhatrapati Sambhaji was executed, after which his brother, Chhatrapati Rajaram, sought refuge in the fort. After 8 years of siege (the longest in their history), in 1698, the Mughals finally captured Gingee; however, Rajaram and his queen, Tarabai, had already escaped, continuing their fight against the empire.
In 1700, Emperor Aurangzeb granted Raja Swarup Singh Bundela (a Rajput warrior) control of the Gingee Fort for his loyalty. However, his son, Raja Desingh (Tej Singh Bundela), later resisted the Mughal rule and bravely fought the Nawab of Arcot in 1714 until he was killed in battle. His courage is still remembered in folk legends.
Despite its grand history, Gingee began to decline owing to an unlikely adversary—mosquitoes! The region was infamous for malaria, which took a heavy toll on soldiers and officials. By 1716, weary of the relentless outbreaks, the Mughals moved their headquarters to Arcot, leaving Gingee to decay. Then, in 1750, during the Anglo-French wars, the French occupied the fort, and within a decade, they lost 1200 soldiers to the disease.
When the British East India Company took control of Gingee in 1760, they found little use for the fort. In 1775, Gov. George Pigot of Madras noted that sending prisoners to Gingee was equivalent to a death sentence. And in 1803, a British official even suggested demolishing the fort because of its proximity to the French-controlled city of Pondicherry. Fortunately, the plan never materialized, thus sparing Gingee from destruction.
After more than a century, in 1920, the Gingee Fort was declared a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India.
The Gingee Fort complex spans three hills: Krishnagiri in the north, Rajagiri in the west, and Chakilidurg in the southeast. The hills—each having its own citadel—are connected by massive walls that stretch 13 kilometres and enclose an area of 11 square kilometres. And the entire fort complex stands at 800 feet (240 metres), safeguarded by an 80-foot-wide moat.
I chose to visit the Rajagiri Fort, the largest and best-preserved of the three. The climb—a total of 1300 steps—was demanding, but the reward was worth every step; the summit offers stunning panoramic views of the vast landscape.
Let me take you through the various structures in the Rajagiri Fort, spread over 11 acres.
Dandora Platform
The Dandora Platform, a square structure, served as a site for official proclamations. Named Dandora (meaning ‘proclamation by beat of a musical instrument called tom-tom’ in Telugu), it is believed to have once held large drums, which the Nayaks and later rulers used to announce public declarations.
Kalyana Mahal
Kalyana Mahal (marriage hall), a seven-storey Indo-Islamic structure with a pyramidal gopuram, features compact, identical rooms on each level and a spacious courtyard with a water tank. An ingenious earthenware piping system once carried fresh water from the nearby Chakrakulam tank to all the floors, showcasing advanced engineering.
Palace Excavation Site
Near the Kalyana Mahal, a long-forgotten mound hides the remains of Raya Mahal, a once-magnificent 11-storey palace, with a grand throne room on the ground floor, from where Gingee’s ruler once held court.
Elephant Tank
The elephant tank is an architectural marvel built during the Nayaka period for both function and grandeur. Measuring 58 m*40 m*15 m, it held a vast amount of water. Steps in its southwest corner allowed elephants to bathe. Some scholars believe it also served as a royal bathing pool. The tank is surrounded by a cloister mandapa with 134 stone pillars, which augments the tank’s beauty.
Gymnasium
The gymnasium, with 1.2-metre-thick granite walls and a vaulted roof, besides having been a venue for exercise and sports, also served as a hidden training ground for sepoys and a storage space for weapons. A misplaced female sculpture hints at later modifications.
Granary
The largest structure in the fort complex, the granary, with a capacity to store 150,000 kalams of grain (1 kalam is approximately 145 kg of rice), was vital for sustaining the fort during sieges. Built by Krishnappa Nayaka near Rajagiri Fort’s first entrance, it features four interconnected vaulted chambers and a central hall with flights of steps leading in three directions. Two more granaries sit atop the hill.
Magazine
The magazine is a square stone platform with a 4.3-metre-deep granite-lined pit in its centre. It was once used for safe containment of explosives, minimizing the risk of accidental detonations.
Drawbridge
A drawbridge spanning 20 feet long and 6 feet wide serves as the sole entry to Rajagiri Fort. It could be raised during attacks, sealing off access to invaders.
Treasury
The treasury is a rectangular brick structure with a single entrance and only two windows, ensuring limited access to the stored wealth. The building is influenced by Islamic architecture and features sturdy arches.
Senjiamman Temple
Senjiamman shrine is believed to be the oldest structure in Gingee, possibly predating the fort itself. Some say the name Senji (another name for Gingee) comes from Senjiamman, the presiding deity of the temple.
At the temple entrance is a slaughter dais, on which buffalos are sacrificed during festivals even today.
Behind the statue of the deity, there are some 17th-century Nayaka-era rock carvings of Hindu deities: Vishnu, vividly painted, holds a conch (sangu) and a discus (chakra). To his right stands Bhudevi, the earth goddess; to his left is a dancing figure, now eroded, missing its face and left hand. Another damaged figure, likely Narasimha, the lion-headed incarnation of Vishnu, stands to the extreme right.
Unjal Mandapa
Unjal Mandapa is a hall with swings (unjal). It was likely used during the Unjal Utsavam (Swing Festival) of the god Ranganatha (a form of Vishnu). Enclosed by a pillared courtyard, the mandapa creates a serene and inviting space.
Hawa Hall
Hawa Hall, built during the Islamic period, is a brick structure with a lime mortar finish. Its domed roof rests on elegant pointed arches. The hall has embrasured windows all around, which offer panoramic views. (Embrasure is an opening in a wall or parapet with sides flaring outward that increase the width of the opening in the interior usually allowing the firing of cannon.)
Ranganathar Temple
Ranganathar Temple, built during the Vijayanagara period, features granite masonry. Its entrance (Mukha Mandapa) is on the south rather than aligning with the deity. This west-facing temple appears to have no inscriptions, and the inner sanctum now stands empty.
Bell Tower
A three-storey bell tower stands opposite the Ranganathar Temple, blending Indo-Islamic architecture. Built with granite and bricks bonded by lime mortar, the tower has a square base, which transitions into a circular top. Once, a bronze bell hung at its peak, the sound carrying to distant villages. According to legend, the French took the bell to Pondicherry.
Cannon in Mandapa
A small stone mandapa south of the bell tower houses a 12-foot cannon, strategically placed to repel distant enemies.
Closing remarks
Gingee Fort is an architectural marvel and a forgotten gem of Indian history. Its massive fortifications, spanning three hills, showcase brilliant military strategy. You also get to enjoy breathtaking views. Unlike the crowded forts of Rajasthan, this one offers solitude, adventure, and an immersive historical experience. Its raw beauty, untold stories, and thrilling treks make it a must-see for history buffs, photographers, and explorers alike.
Tips for Visitors:
The visit will take 2–4 hours, depending on your interest and fitness.
Open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (last ticket issued at 3:00 p.m.)
Wear comfortable shoes—the steep climb can be demanding.
There are no guides.
No restaurants in the area; carry 2–3 litres of water and snacks.
Best visited early morning to avoid the afternoon heat.
Carry a camera to capture the stunning landscapes and architecture.
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