What Are Pelagic Birds
Pelagic birds live in the open ocean, spending most of their lives at sea and coming to land only to breed. Their long wings enable them to fly for days, even sleeping in mid-air. They are swimmers and divers, equipped with salt glands to eliminate salts from their blood. Watching these birds in their natural habitat far from shore is known as pelagic birding.
Pelagic Birding
Pelagic birding can be challenging, with risks of seasickness and intense sun exposure. A full day on the water can be tiring, but the rewards are worth the effort. Spotting birds that cannot be seen on land, and marine life such as whales, dolphins, flying fish, and sea turtles, is an exhilarating experience. The possibility of seeing rare birds excites birders. And for fish lovers, the chance to savour freshly cooked seafood on board is a delicious perk!
Pelagic Birding in India
Pelagic birding is becoming increasingly popular in India, thanks to the country’s long coastline and rich marine ecosystems. It is easier for birdwatchers to spot a variety of pelagic species: albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters, skuas, and storm petrels. The best places for pelagic birding in India are the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Lakshadweep, Gulf of Mannar, and Arabian Sea.
Despite a decade of birding, I had never experienced a pelagic birding trip. So when the Kottayam Nature Society announced a pelagic birding excursion off the coast of Kochi (also known as Cochin, a major port city in Kerala, along the Malabar Coast) in May 2024, my friends Latha and Jamal from Ernakulam invited me to join them along, and I jumped at the opportunity.
Kottayam Nature Society
The Kottayam Nature Society (KNS) is actively involved in conservation, tackling environmental challenges across Kottayam district. Since its founding, KNS has prioritized protection of wetlands and promotion of biodiversity. One of its flagship initiatives is the Vembanad Water Bird Count, organized annually since 2001. KNS also hosts monthly programmes on conservation and conducts outreach activities to foster a love for nature in its growing community.
The society is headed by Dr. B. Sreekumar, the president (an orthopaedic surgeon passionate about birdwatching), and Dr. N. Unnikrishnan, the secretary (a botanist specializing in bamboo).
Pelagic Birding Trip
Pelagic trips are highly weather-dependent, and favourable conditions are required to get clearance from coastal authorities to venture farther out to sea. This year (2024), the extended monsoon led to repeated postponements, testing my patience and heightening my anticipation. The trip was finally confirmed for October 6.
Early that morning, we made our way to the docks at Fort Kochi, excitement building with each step. By 6:30 a.m., we boarded a fishing boat, eager to begin our long-awaited adventure.
Before departure, all photographers synchronized their camera timestamps to maintain a shared reference—a process that helps them match shots of a same bird from different angles, making identification easier.
To the Sea
With the engine rumbling to life, the boat eased away from the shore. Kochi’s skyline gradually receded, giving way to the endless expanse of the sea. Morning light shimmered on the water, and gentle swells cradled the boat.
Leading the trip from the crow’s nest at the bow of the boat, Mr. P.J. George scanned the horizon, calling out sightings as birds appeared; Shah Jahan and Aneesh Sashidevan assisted on deck, helping participants identify species; Karthik and Mohammad Hirash tracked each sighting and compiled a checklist as the day unfolded.
Around 40 birding enthusiasts from Kerala filled the boat. Laughter and conversation flowed as stories were shared. Some held binoculars, others cradled their cameras, all eager for surprises the open ocean might spring on us. The anticipation of encountering something extraordinary hung in the air as we sailed farther into the sea.
Pelagic Birds off the Coast of Malabar, from Kochi
Greater Crested Terns
As we ventured farther out to sea, a flock of great crested terns came into view, resting comfortably on a buoy. A few took off soon and glided smoothly over the waves in search of food.
Wilson’s Storm Petrels
Wilson’s storm petrels were everywhere, gliding just above the water and pattering their feet as they fed. We observed around 150 of them feeding on a turtle carcass. One of world’s most abundant birds, these petrels breed along Antarctic coasts during the southern summer and spend the rest of the year at sea, moving north during the southern winter.
Bridled Terns
Bridled terns, nearly as numerous as Wilson’s storm petrels, were seen gliding over the water or perched on debris. Their dark caps and white underparts contrasted with the blues and greys of the sea. Thriving in tropical waters, these terns breed on remote islands and nest under rocks or bushes for protection.
Parasitic Jaegers
Two Parasitic jaegers zipped past our boat. These migratory seabirds breed in the northern hemisphere and winter in southern oceans. Their reliance on kleptoparasitism (stealing food from another species) is fascinating; they chase gulls and terns, forcing them to drop their catches mid-air.
Flesh-Footed Shearwater
A dark-coloured bird with a black-tipped bill and pale pink feet soon appeared. An expert identified it as a flesh-footed shearwater. These birds breed on islands off southern Australia and northern New Zealand, and are threatened by climate change and heavy metal contamination, likely due to ingestion of plastic.
Red-Billed Tropicbird
Excitement surged as someone shouted ‘white-tailed tropicbird!’ Cameras clicked rapidly, capturing the moment. Later identified as a red-billed tropicbird, it was a significant lifer for many seasoned birders, thus the highlight of our trip. These majestic birds prefer soaring above the waves.
South Polar Skua
We spotted a solitary south polar skua swimming. This large, powerful seabird is known for its aggressive, predatory behaviour and impressive flying skills. Breeding in Antarctica, it migrates across the Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic Oceans and winters at sea. Its diet mainly consists of fish, often stolen from gulls, terns, and gannets. It also feeds on other birds and carrion.
Back to Shore
After hours at sea, the boat began its return to the shore. We were both exhausted and elated. Despite the physical toll—seasickness, sunburns, and weariness—everyone was abuzz with the day’s sightings. We had traveled 137 km into the unknown, spotted 23 species of birds, including the masked booby and lesser crested tern, and spent nearly 12 hours at sea!
Spending hours on open sea, surrounded by calm waters and seabirds, felt like a retreat, but as the shores of Kochi came into view, the noise and heat of urban life crept back in. The towering buildings and bustling city life stood in sharp contrast to the serene Arabian Sea. The transition felt bittersweet as the peaceful moments spent with nature faded into the background, replaced by the rush of city life. Soon, I would return to my routine, leaving behind the quiet company of the seabirds and the open sea.
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Wonderful
Wow I did not even know that there's a separate term for ocean birds
Wonderfully narrated. Learnt a lot from your post. Beautiful visuals😍
Stunning pictures, indeed. Descriptions are very informative and would help birders to identify these rare avian beauties. Congrats Devanand