Nestled in Arunachal Pradesh’s rugged mountains, Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary captivates bird enthusiasts. The name Eaglenest honours the Red Eagle Division of the Indian Army, which had a base here in the 1950s. With over 700 bird species, Eaglenest is one of India’s premier birdwatching destinations. It was on my bucket list, which I finally managed to cross off in May 2024.
Located near the Bhutan border, Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary is part of a vast forest area that spans from Sikkim to Bhutan and into Arunachal Pradesh. A Himalaya biodiversity hotspot, it is home to rare animal species. The sanctuary has a subtropical climate with significant rainfall, and occasional snowfall in winter due to its high altitude.
The ideal time to visit Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary is from October to April. March to April sees the highest influx of visitors. The sanctuary is closed to the public from June to September.
I took a 12-day trip starting from Guwahati (Assam), passing through Nameri (Assam), Sela Pass, and Mandala Village before reaching our destination: Lama and Bomphu Camps at Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary. Here is a short account of the trip.
Day 1 (2 May 2024)
Arriving at Guwahati Airport in the afternoon, we headed straight to the outskirts of the city—to the dump yard, to be precise—in search of the greater adjutant stork. The landfill, despite its unpleasant appearance, is vital for these birds, providing food amidst refuse. We spotted majestic storks soaring overhead, their distinctive posture and large wingspan contrasting with the garbage. These birds flourish in such harsh environs.
After lunch, we drove to Baligora Eco Camp at Nameri, where we stayed the night.
Day 2 (3 May 2024)
At 5:45 a.m., we started our drive towards Nameri National Park. After obtaining the permit from the forest department, we proceeded towards the Jia Bharali (Kameng) River. While awaiting our turn to cross the river, we spotted many birds: oriental turtle dove, wreathed hornbill, grey-throated martin, common iora, dollarbird, red-breasted parakeet, river lapwing, and Indian thick-knee.
Our primary objective in Nameri was to sight the white-winged wood duck. But despite our efforts, we couldn’t spot any; however, we sighted other bird species: white-throated bulbul, lesser racket-tailed drongo, pin-striped tit-babbler, Abbott’s babbler, Indo-Chinese roller, Indian thick-knee, and blue-bearded bee-eater.
By 10:30, we returned to the camp, ready to enjoy a well-deserved breakfast.
In the evening, we ventured on nocturnal birding around the camp. We were fortunate to spot two elusive nocturnal birds: the oriental scops owl and the brown boobook. Their haunting calls echoed through the darkness. It was thrilling to observe these birds in their natural habitat under the veil of darkness.
Day 3 (4 May 2024)
In the morning we revisited Nameri National Park in search of the white-winged wood duck, but once again, our quest proved fruitless. However, we were rewarded with the sight of a western hooded pitta flitting from tree to tree amidst dense foliage. After some persistence, I managed to capture a photo of this elusive bird. We also spotted a common hill myna, grey-capped pygmy woodpecker, and sand lark.
On our way back, we came across an Assam roof turtle resting on a fallen branch by the river.
Day 4 (5 May 2024)
Today we set off for Dirang, a small Himalayan village. Our journey was punctuated with moments of birdwatching.
At our first stop we spotted a striated grassbird and a great myna. Moving on to our next location, we encountered a yellow-bellied warbler and a white-browed piculet.
As we continued, we stumbled on a lively group of pale-billed parrotbills, their colour captivating our attention. Our sightings didn’t stop here; we also spotted several other birds: grey-throated babbler, silver-eared mesia, small niltava, verditer flycatcher, grey-chinned minivet, Indian cuckoo, black bulbul, and bronzed drongo.
After lunch, we reached Dirang and quickly headed to a nearby area for birdwatching.
To our delight, a pair of dark-sided flycatchers boldly approached us, seemingly eager to pose for photographs. Meanwhile, a russet bush warbler remained hidden within the thickets, teasing us with its elusive presence.
Amidst the avian chorus, a pale blue flycatcher serenaded us with its melodious song. Our keen eyes also spotted a white-browed shrike-babbler, Tickell’s thrush, and Eurasian tree sparrow, each adding to the charm of the moment. As we were observing these birds, a verditer flycatcher swooped down, deftly catching an insect.
Day 5 (6 May 2024)
Departing from Dirang at 4 a.m., we made our way to Sela Pass, at 13,700-feet altitude. Located on the border between Tawang and West Kameng districts in Arunachal Pradesh, it holds historical and geographical importance. The pass is named in honour of Sela, a local girl who was in love with an Indian army officer Jaswant Singh Rawat. During the Indo-China war in 1962, Jaswant fought alone for three days defending the pass. Sela would bring him water and food. Unfortunately, Sela’s father betrayed Jaswant, leading to his capture by the Chinese. Upon learning of his death, Sela committed suicide.
As we neared the pass, fog enveloped the surroundings, significantly reducing visibility. Rhododendron trees were in full bloom. We were driving slowly when suddenly two blood pheasants emerged, crossing our path. We halted and watched them in awe as they calmly observed us before vanishing into the dense undergrowth.
Atop the rhododendron trees, we spotted a red-headed bullfinch perched majestically. And amidst the colourful rhododendron flowers, a fire-tailed sunbird was flitting, adding to the picturesque scene.
Soon thick fog descended, bringing our birding to a halt. Perched atop a pine tree, a white-collared black bird caught our attention, and a rosy pipit wandered nearby.
When the weather cleared, we moved to a lake area, where a stunning sight awaited us: a pair of grandalas foraging under falling snow.
Suddenly, a mountain weasel darted into view, hunting with precision. I was observing it for a few minutes when my guide’s excited voice drew my attention to a rare sight: the Tibetan black bird.
With hearts racing, we took as many photos as we could, cherishing the unexpected encounter.
We then headed to another area in search of the snow partridge. Although we spotted one in the distance, it remained far from reach. Nearby, an alpine accentor was diligently foraging on a rock.
After a satisfying breakfast, we drove to a nearby spot beside a tranquil stream, where we came across a couple of snow pigeons foraging. I managed to capture a video of this serene moment. Our attention was then drawn to the call of the blood pheasant, and we were fortunate to spot one perched atop a rock, watching us.
Cautiously advancing, we witnessed a pair of fire-tailed myzornis darting among the rhododendron trees, followed by a black-faced laughingthrush. After this encounter, we returned to Dirang for a late lunch.
On return, we chose the Sela Tunnel, a remarkable feat of engineering located at 9800 feet. This tunnel is a vital link ensuring all-weather connectivity between Guwahati (Assam) and Tawang (Arunachal Pradesh).
Following lunch, we went to a riverside near Dirang in search of the long-billed plover. Our efforts were rewarded when we spotted one foraging along the bank.
Day 6 (7 May 2024)
We set off from Dirang to Mandala at 5 a.m., a 20-km drive, which took us quickly from an altitude of 5000 feet to 10,000 feet. When we arrived in Mandala, it was drizzling and foggy.
We headed to a spot near the Mandala Birding Lodge in search of birds, and had sightings of the brownish-flanked bush warbler and buff-throated warbler. A group of olive-backed pipits were foraging nearby. We also spotted ashy-wood pigeons and wedge-tailed green pigeons. Soon after, a black-browed tit appeared, followed by a stripe-throated yuhina.
Moving forward, we saw a Eurasian nutcracker perched high on a tree. The rhododendrons were in full bloom, creating a stunning scene. After breakfast, we explored another area, where we spotted a couple of spotted laughingthrushes. Nearby, a pair of common rose finches were playfully interacting.
Suddenly, a whistler’s warbler appeared, and then a crimson-browed finch, which excited us all. Two green-tailed sunbirds were playing hide-and-seek in the branches.
We then visited an agricultural area, where a collared blackbird was foraging. I captured a video of this beautiful moment.
Continuing our birding, we saw Mrs. Gould’s sunbird and a cooperative Darjeeling woodpecker posing for pictures.
After lunch, we moved to another spot and found Bhutan laughingthrushes. Walking along the road, we observed a pair of chestnut-tailed minlas playing together.
And a group of blue-winged minlas and red-tailed minlas was moving busily on the treetops.
As the day drew to a close and the light dimmed, we spotted two brown parrotbills in a thicket and spent a few minutes taking their pictures.
The day ended on a sombre note, though—we discovered an injured large-billed crow, whose survival was uncertain, reminding us of nature’s harsh realities. With that thought, we returned to Dirang for the night.
Day 7 (8 May 2024)
We started the day at 5 a.m. Our plan was to reach Lama Camp from Dirang via Mandala, birding along the way.
En route, we spotted two Himalayan griffons perched on a tree—a great sight at close range.
Reaching Mandala, we saw a brown bush warbler and four rufous-vented yuhinas on a nearby tree.
Heading uphill, we saw a Blyth’s leaf warbler and a large-billed leaf warbler, which lifted our spirits. After breakfast, we walked further and spotted stripe-throated yuhinas. Then we proceeded to an open area, and were delighted to see a chestnut-crowned laughingthrush and black-faced laughingthrush. We then drove towards Lama Camp.
On the way, we spotted a solitary purple cochoa perched on the canopy. While observing it, a Himalayan cutia appeared, followed by a white-tailed nuthatch gathering food.
We walked some more and then took a brief rest, which is when we spotted an Asian emerald cuckoo on a treetop. The bird eventually came down to our eye level, allowing me to take numerous pictures and videos. Our patience paid off.
We bid farewell to the cuckoo and drove to our lunch point. Near the hotel, we spotted a black-tailed crake; it chose to present itself after a good half hour. After photographing it, we had a good lunch.
An hour’s drive deposited us at Lama Camp. After checking into our rooms, we headed out for nocturnal photography, targeting Hodgson’s frogmouth and grey nightjar. But despite our efforts, we came back empty-handed.
Day 8 (9 May 2024)
Today we set out to photograph the elusive Bugun liocichla, a small bird with a very limited distribution range in northeastern India: Its habitat spans just 44 km2 in Arunachal Pradesh, within the Bugun tribe’s community forests. With only 50 to 100 individuals remaining, this critically endangered species is difficult to find.
Found in dense scrub and among bamboos at 2,000-metre elevation, the Bugun liocichla was first spotted in 1995 and not seen again for a decade. The Bugun tribe, near Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary, has donated 1470 hectares to protect this bird, demonstrating exceptional community-driven conservation efforts.
Our day started at 5 a.m. We headed to Singchung Park, a couple of kilometres from Lama Camp, looking out for the Bugun liocichla. As we entered the park, the song of a common cuckoo greeted us. We started searching for the liocichla, but despite our best efforts, we had no luck. However, we did spot an ashy drongo and a yellow-bellied fantail.
The original plan was to leave for Bomphu Camp after lunch, but our determination to find the Bugun liocichla led us to extend our stay at Lama Camp.
After breakfast, we explored the area around Lama Camp, where we spotted a Ward’s trogon and a chestnut-crowned warbler.
Afternoon we again headed to Singchung, hoping to sight the liocichla. This time we managed to catch a distant glimpse of the bird, but not enough for a clear picture.
The forest never disappoints, though—we found a cooperative ferruginous flycatcher for a good photo session, and a Himalayan cuckoo and scarlet finch.
Our nocturnal birding drew a blank today as well! We did spot a hairy-footed flying squirrel, though, which was a nice surprise.
Day 9 (10 May 2024)
The day began at 5 a.m. with a single focus: spotting the elusive Bugun liocichla. We roamed around the park, scanning every nook and cranny. After a good three hours, luck smiled on us—we managed to get a beautiful picture of the liocichla. Our joy knew no bounds; it was a moment of triumph.
Satisfied, we headed towards Bomphu Camp under persistent rain. Although the downpour had dampened bird activity, it invigorated the frogs. On the way, we spotted a frog egg case and a greenish frog known as the Patsarlamdam flying frog (Zhangixalus burmanus).
A remarkable feature of this flying frog is its extensive toe webbing, allowing it to glide from tree to tree to escape from predators and navigate the forest canopy. Its large eyes, suited for nocturnal life, provide excellent night vision. Found in the tropical and subtropical moist lowland forests of Yunnan (southern China), Nagaland (northeastern India), and northern Myanmar, it thrives in humid, rainy environment. The frog lays its eggs in foam nests above water, ensuring the safety of the developing tadpoles.
The only bird we spotted on our way to Bomphu Camp was a broadbill warbler. We eventually arrived at the camp and took a much-needed rest. Bomphu Camp offers basic tents for sleeping and common toilets, but everything was clean and well maintained. The camp prioritizes eco-friendly practices, such as using renewable energy, minimizing waste, and supporting local conservation initiatives. We had a narrow window of electricity—from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.—provided through generators, allowing us to charge our gadgets.
Day 10 (11 May 2024)
At 5 a.m. we headed to a nearby area around Bomphu Camp for birding. Our first sighting was a Blyth’s leaf warbler. Shortly after, we found a barred cuckoo-dove nest. As we continued, we spotted a chestnut-crowned warbler, a long-tailed minivet, and a black-throated parrotbill, followed by a pair of mountain imperial pigeons perched on a branch.
After returning to the camp for breakfast, we drove a short distance and spotted a white-spectacled warbler and a group of stripe-throated yuhinas and yellow-cheeked tits. Green-tailed sunbirds seemed to be everywhere, indicating their high population in the area.
During lunch break, a Richard’s pipit appeared, a rare sighting here. After lunch, we spotted a rusty-fronted barwing. Despite the drizzle, we were fortunate to see and photograph a Sikkim wedge-billed babbler and rufous-throated wren-babbler, both elusive birds.
Day 11 (12 May 2024)
Our day began at the customary hour of 5 a.m. As we ventured into the forest, the distinctive call of the chestnut-breasted partridge echoed through the trees. Hiding ourselves behind a thicket, we patiently waited, hoping to get a glimpse of this elusive bird. After a suspenseful 20 minutes, the partridge cautiously emerged from the undergrowth. With bated breath, we observed the bird in silence, capturing the moment through our lenses for over 15 minutes. It was an intimate encounter—nature at its finest.
Leaving our feathery friend, we proceeded for breakfast, a hearty one. Energized and eager for more birding, we went to a lower area, where a group of white-breasted parrotbills were flitting from tree to tree.
A fleeting appearance by a black-eared shrike babbler added to the excitement, followed by the sighting of a crimson-naped woodpecker scaling a nearby tree branch.
Our unexpected encounters continued—a curious Himalayan keelback was blocking our path! After capturing its image, we gently guided it back into the foliage and pressed on.
A brief sighting of a long-billed wren-babbler and a pair of golden babblers added to the day’s spottings.
Sated with lunch, we continued our birding, and our efforts were rewarded with sightings of a long-tailed broadbill and a vocal golden-throated barbet.
As we ventured deeper into the forest, our guide’s exclamation drew our attention to the canopy, where a rare grey-headed parrotbill made a quick appearance. Despite the distance, we managed to capture its beauty.
With daylight waning, we reluctantly motored back to the camp. En route, a majestic khalij pheasant presented itself, marking the end of another remarkable day in the wilderness.
Day 12 (13 May 2024)
Today marked the end of our trip. We kicked off our birding at 5 a.m., aiming to head back to Guwahati later in the day.
Our first encounter came with the call of the elusive blue-naped pitta. We paused, ears attuned to its melodious call, and patiently waited for it to emerge from the dense underbrush. After 15 minutes, we just caught a glimpse of it before it vanished.
Continuing along the forest trail, we spotted a long-tailed sibia and a rufous-backed sibia.
Our excitement peaked when we sighted a blue-bearded bee-eater and a large blue flycatcher nestled in the bushes.
As we made our way farther, the sight of a yellow-vented warbler was an unexpected delight.
Eventually, we reached the exit gate of the Eaglenest forest. With a mix of contentment and reluctance, we packed up our cameras.
Flora of Eaglenest
Eaglenest is renowned for its diverse flora. At lower elevation, one finds lush subtropical forest, featuring a mix of broadleaf evergreen trees, bamboos, and dense undergrowth.
Apart from common trees such as Ficus (fig), Quercus (oak), and Castanopsis, a variety of ferns, orchids, and mosses abound.
As one ascends, the forest transitions into a temperate zone characterized by a mix of evergreen and deciduous trees. Rhododendrons dominate this altitude, their spectacular blooms adding splashes of colour to the landscape.
At the highest elevation, alpine meadows and forest take over, with stunted growth forms of rhododendron, juniper, and betula being common.
Interspersed throughout the various forest types are extensive bamboo groves, which provide critical habitat and food resources for many wildlife species.
Final Thoughts
Eaglenest stands out for its unparalleled biodiversity, boasting a variety of rare and endemic plant and animal species. It is a birdwatcher’s paradise, filled with enchanting bird calls. The sanctuary excels in conservation, protecting endangered species like the Bugun liocichla. And unlike some Himalayan parks, Eaglenest is easier to access with well-maintained roads. Overall, the park offers an unforgettable birding experience.
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Birds Spotted During the Visit:
o Abbott’s Babbler
o Alpine Accentor
o Ashy Drongo
o Ashy Wood-Pigeon
o Asian Barred Owlet
o Asian Emerald Cuckoo
o Barred Cuckoo-Dove
o Beautiful Sibia
o Bhutan Laughingthrush
o Black Bulbul
o Black Drongo
o Black-browed Tit
o Black-eared Shrike-Babbler
o Black-faced Laughingthrush
o Black-faced Warbler
o Black-tailed Crake
o Black-throated Parrotbill
o Blood Pheasant
o Blue-bearded Bee-eater
o Blue-naped Pitta
o Blue-winged Minla
o Blyth’s Leaf Warbler
o Broad-billed Warbler
o Bronzed Drongo
o Brown Boobook
o Brown Bush Warbler
o Brown Parrotbill
o Brown-throated Fulvetta
o Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler
o Buff-throated Warbler
o Bugun Liocichla
o Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush
o Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush
o Chestnut-crowned Warbler
o Chestnut-headed Bee-eater
o Chestnut-tailed Minla
o Chestnut-tailed Starling
o Common Cuckoo
o Common Iora
o Common Myna
o Common Rosefinch
o Crimson Sunbird
o Crimson-browed Finch
o Crimson-naped Woodpecker
o Darjeeling Woodpecker
o Dark-sided Flycatcher
o Dollarbird
o Eurasian Nutcracker
o Eurasian Tree Sparrow
o Fire-tailed Myzornis
o Fire-tailed Sunbird
o Golden Babbler
o Golden-throated Barbet
o Grandala
o Gray Bushchat
o Gray-cheeked Warbler
o Gray-chinned Minivet
o Gray-headed Parrotbill
o Gray-sided Bush Warbler
o Gray-throated Babbler
o Gray-throated Martin
o Great Myna
o Great Thick-knee
o Green Imperial Pigeon
o Green-backed Tit
o Green-tailed Sunbird
o Himalayan Cutia
o Himalayan Griffon
o Himalayan Owl
o Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch
o Indian Cuckoo Black Eagle
o Indian Thick-knee
o Indo-Chinese Roller
o Large Blue Flycatcher
o Large Hawk-Cuckoo
o Large Niltava
o Large-billed Crow
o Large-billed Leaf Warbler
o Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo
o Lesser Yellownape
o Long-billed Wren-Babbler
o Long-tailed Broadbill
o Long-tailed Minivet
o Long-tailed Shrike
o Long-tailed Sibia
o Maroon Oriole
o Mountain Hawk-Eagle
o Mountain Imperial-Pigeon
o Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird
o Olive-backed Pipit
o Oriental Scops-Owl
o Oriental Turtle-Dove
o Pale Blue Flycatcher
o Pale-billed Parrotbill
o Pin-striped Tit-Babbler
o Purple Cochoa
o Red-breasted Parakeet
o Red-headed Bullfinch
o Red-tailed Minla
o Red-vented Bulbul
o Richard’s Pipit
o River Lapwing
o Rosy Pipit
o Rufous-backed Sibia
o Rufous-bellied Woodpecker
o Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher
o Rufous-necked Hornbill
o Rufous-throated Wren-Babbler
o Rufous-vented Yuhina
o Russet Bush Warbler
o Rusty-fronted Barwing
o Sapphire Flycatcher
o Sikkim Wedge-billed Babbler
o Silver-eared Mesia
o Small Niltava
o Snow Partridge
o Snow Pigeon
o Spotted Laughingthrush
o Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo
o Striated Bulbul
o Striated Grassbird
o Striated Laughingthrush
o Striated Yuhina
o Stripe-throated Yuhina
o Tibetan Blackbird
o Tickell’s Thrush
o Verditer Flycatcher
o Ward’s Trogon
o Wedge-tailed Green-Pigeon
o Whistler’s Warbler
o White-breasted Parrotbill
o White-browed Piculet
o White-browed Shrike-Babbler
o White-capped Redstart
o White-collared Blackbird
o White-gorgeted Flycatcher
o White-spectacled Warbler
o White-tailed Nuthatch
o White-throated Bulbul
o White-throated Fantail
o White-throated Kingfisher
o Wreathed Hornbill
o Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail
o Yellow-bellied Warbler
o Yellow-cheeked Tit
o Yellow-throated Fulvetta
o Yellow-vented Warbler
Good morning Dev,
Read your blog on your trip to eagles Nest.
Read the blog from end to endas it was so captivating with beautiful photographs, as u could only have taken. Thoroughly njoyed n relived my trip to the bugun nest.
Nothing less is expected from you. Happy birding
Good morning Dev Sir
Very well narrated, excellent photos, enjoy your company
Wish you all the very best for your future tours
Sanjay