An Expedition to Photograph Wallace's Standardwing

A few years back, I was captivated by the BBC’s “Natural World” documentary film Attenborough in Paradise. It ignited a strong desire within me to capture the enigmatic birds of paradise with my camera. In July 2023, taking my first stride towards my ambition, I travelled to Halmahera, Indonesia, with a small group of bird photographers led by an experienced guide Ar Bahar Hamanur to photograph the remarkable Wallace's Standardwing, a bird of paradise which is Near Threatened (population decreasing).

Here is a concise history of the discovery of Wallace's Standardwing. Alfred Russel Wallace (1823–1913) was a British naturalist. One day in 1858, Ali, his assistant, presented him with a mysterious avian specimen. As Wallace laid eyes on this enigmatic bird, he realized he was in possession of not just any bird but one that was in stark contrast to all its avian counterparts.

With a heart brimming with anticipation, Wallace penned a letter to his agent Stevens:

" I have got here a new Bird of Paradise!! of a new genus!!! quite unlike anything yet known, very curious & very handsome!!! ….. I consider it the greatest discovery I have yet made."

After its initial discovery in 1858, the standardwing bird-of-paradise (as it is also called) remained elusive for nearly six decades, reappearing sporadically until 1953. Subsequent sightings became scarce until 1983, when British ornithologist David Bishop rediscovered the species, and began to document the bird's behaviour, providing the first comprehensive insights into its habits. The standardwing is endemic to the North Maluku islands, Indonesia.

The name standardwing may sound uncommon. It stems from its exceptional wings. The male boasts two pairs of elongated white plumes extending from the bend of their wings. These plumes, when raised during courtship displays, resemble military standards—large flags, unique to each regiment, that the ordinary soldier would be able to identify straight away—lending an air of distinction to this bird. The purpose of the elaborate plumage, though, remains a mystery.

The courtship of this elusive bird unfolds in the predawn darkness. Hence, we started our trek to the Akatajewe Lolobata National Park on Halmahera Island at the wee hour of 4:00 a.m. from the ranger's lodging. As we advanced into the heart of the primary forest , the surroundings were dark beneath the dense canopy, and our headlamps lit the way, helping us navigate the rugged path. Soon we started hearing symphonies of tweets, squawks, whistles, rattles, and hoots, hinting at the awakening of forest life around us.

Fortune favoured our expedition—the rain gods spared us. Yet, the trek tested our physical endurance, proving particularly demanding because of the darkness. However, driven by our determination to witness the standardwing in action, we persevered and reached our bird hide just as dawn was breaking.

A little after 6:00 a.m., we were treated to the elaborate courtship display and the standardwings’ melodious calls. An assembly of male birds gathered atop a tree, orchestrating a flurry of movements—fluttering, branch-biting, and raucous squawking. This intricate behaviour, known as a lek, serves either to attract potential mates or to establish a hierarchy among males. This was followed by the courtship ritual, which lasted for about 45 minutes. During the entire spectacle, the standardwings kept flaunting their vibrant plumage. Subsequently, they meticulously groomed themselves and occasionally indulged in fruits before vanishing uphill for foraging.

The memory of that dimly lit morning deep in the forest, gazing through a small window in our bird hide and witnessing the courtship spectacle in the canopy, will remain etched in my mind forever. For about an hour, we observed and photographed the birds. Yet, it wasn't until we returned to the spot two hours later, under the radiant sunlight, that we could truly savour the stupendous landscape. Our encounter with the Standardwings fully justified the arduous predawn hike.

The entire trek in search of the standardwing bird-of-paradise can be viewed in this 5-minute video.