A Quest for the Elusive Cheer Pheasant

Situated atop a hill in the tranquil Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India, Kartik Swami Temple (dedicated to the Hindu god Kartikeya) stands tall at an elevation of 3564 metres (11,693 feet). More than just a religious destination, the temple offers exquisite views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks and lush green valleys. It is a place where spirituality meets adventure, providing a sanctuary for both the soul and the senses.

The temple is a 3-kilometre trek from Kanakchauri village, winding through dense forests, terraced fields, and scenic meadows. The trail promises a beautiful adventure for trekkers.

In this scenic landscape, wildlife thrives abundantly. Musk deer, langurs, elusive black bears, and a myriad of bird species, prominent among which are the Himalayan monal, koklass pheasant, and cheer pheasant, inhabit this region. I was drawn to this place primarily to witness and photograph the beauty of the cheer pheasant.

The cheer pheasant doesn’t boast flamboyant feathers, unlike the Himalayan monal or the koklass, which have striking plumage, or the kaleej, whose silver hackles offer a stunning contrast to its blue-black feathers. Instead, it exudes an air of elegance and grace. Tracking down this bird is incredibly challenging, adding to its mystique and allure.

Cheer pheasants prefer steep slopes, highlands, and scrublands of the Himalayan regions of India, Pakistan, and Nepal, usually between altitudes of 6000 and 10,000 feet. Specifically in India, they are concentrated in the northern states of Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh, and Jammu and Kashmir. But their distribution is fragmented; they exist in scattered pockets of small populations.

In Uttarakhand, these pheasants are seen in Kumaon and Garhwal regions. The Kartik Swami temple area is well known for sightings of these birds. This prompted us to venture there in hopes of catching a glimpse of the elusive pheasant.

After concluding our birding session at Sattal, we started off to Kanakchauri village. The journey proved lengthy and tiresome. The initial plan was to hike uphill from the village to the temple; however, because of a 2-hour delay, we decided to take a mule ride, hoping to boost our chances of spotting the cheer pheasant near the temple.

We arrived at the temple around 4:30 p.m. It was a wintry afternoon. Amidst serene surroundings, our eyes started scanning the mountain’s edges for the pheasant. It wasn’t long before our guide pointed out a pair of these magnificent birds near the temple! Slowly and quietly, we moved towards the birds, careful not to startle them. Surprisingly, they seemed unfazed by our presence, boldly foraging nearby as if inviting us to share their golden-hour feast.

The setting sun cast a warm, golden glow upon the scene, amplifying the beauty of the moment. Our camera shutters clicked in harmony, immortalizing this rare encounter. It was an incredible sight, one that usually unfolds at a distance but we were lucky enough to witness it right in front of our lenses and that too for a good 45 minutes. We thanked our guide for the well-thought-out plan.

Despite the excitement, I cannot ignore the grim fact about these pheasants: Currently, they are vulnerable owing to habitat loss, small population sizes, and targeted hunting in specific regions, and hence listed on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species.