For years, I had been captivated by the annual spectacle of bar-headed geese gracing the skies of India during the winter season. Bar-headed geese are known for their remarkable high-altitude migrations. Each winter, I eagerly set out to any one of the many bird sanctuaries across India to photograph them. However, my curiosity about their incredible journey beyond the Indian subcontinent had grown over the years. I longed to visit their breeding grounds in the remote Tibetan plateau, and this desire led me on an expedition to Ladakh (Kashmir, India).
What are bar-headed geese, and what is so special about them? Well, these are an interesting species of geese. Large, with a pale grey plumage, they owe their name to the horseshoe-shaped black bars on their heads. While males and females share a similar appearance, males possess a slightly larger and heavier physique.
During the colder months (October to March) these geese can be found residing in the low-lying swamps of India, Nepal, and Bangladesh (South Asia). As the weather starts to warm up, they migrate to their summer breeding grounds in the high mountain lakes and wetlands of Tibet, Kazakhstan, Mongolia, and Russia (Central Asia).
Bar-headed geese breed between late April and July. The females lay three to eight eggs in a ground nest. After an incubation period of 28 to 30 days, the eggs hatch, and the goslings leave the nest after just one or two days! Over the next 55 to 60 days, these offspring go through the process of fledging (the period during which young birds develop feathers and learn to fly and become self-sufficient). It takes around three years for these young geese to reach maturity.
The bar-headed geese reach astonishing altitudes during their trans-Himalayan migration, reaching heights of about 7,270 metres, making them the highest-flying birds in the world. Mountaineers have anecdotally reported seeing them fly above the Mount Everest, which stands at a towering 8,848 metres.
Do all migratory birds fly at this height? Birds generally avoid flying above one thousand metres. Altitude brings about considerable changes in the environment: atmospheric pressure diminishes significantly at around 5,500 metres, air density decreases, and oxygen becomes scarce, all of which can drain birds of their energy.
However, bar-headed geese boast an exceptional respiratory system—larger lungs, and efficient oxygen transport and blood flow regulation—which aids in maintaining energy levels and body temperature at challenging altitudes. They have a special type of haemoglobin, which absorbs oxygen more efficiently than in other species of geese. Also their wing muscles have more blood capillaries, helping these geese fly at great heights. Facing thin air, they adapt by slowing their metabolism and modifying wing flaps to conserve energy, showcasing their mastery of high-altitude flight. Enough reason for an avid birder to embark on a long journey to witness these birds in one of their breeding habitats—the enchanting Pangong Lake.
Situated at 4350 metres, Pangong Lake is the world’s highest saltwater lake. The sheer magnificence of the landscape is mind-blowing. Its deep blue waters stretch endlessly. After reaching the lake and having taken in the beauty for a good few minutes, I started scanning the vicinity for the bar-headed goose. And lo and behold, I spotted a pair of them waddling along the shore with their fluffy, downy chicks. The tiny goslings, full of innocence and vulnerability, were navigating their new world under the vigilant guidance of their parents.
The geese were swimming gracefully in the morning light, moving in a single file. One parent led the way, while the other watched over the procession from the rear, a beautifully synchronized movement as if they were choreographing a delicate ballet on the lake.
After their morning swim, the geese congregated on the lake’s shore to feed. It was a peaceful scene as they nibbled on vegetation and explored the shoreline. I was so engrossed in their world I didn't realize more than an hour had flown by.
The bar-headed geese had taken me on an extraordinary voyage, one that I would cherish forever.
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